High-street ballgowns from the Erdem x HM store
H&M
Erdem x H&M: the ballgown is taking over the high street
The current designer collaboration from H&M is with Erdem, the Canadian Turkish intriguer known for his work with textiles, prints and ultra-feminine gowns. Keep in view faux-fur coats, jacquard dresses and florals for men. But is the high boulevard ready for a £150 ballgown?
Go big or go home: that is the new party clothes code. Forget the little black dress, and get ready for the stately gown. When Erdem x HM drops on 2 November, the smart wealth will be snapping up a £149 party dress with labyrinthine snowdrop embroidery on formal stiff jacquard, embellished with a old grosgrain bow and falling from a precisely gathered waist into a mammoth, ankle-length tiered skirt.
The November issue of British Mode features Claire Foy in a floor-sweeping, dusty-pink ballgown by Christian Siriano. As the big shot of Netflix drama The Crown, Foy is no stranger to a ballgown. The Crown, Downton Abbey, the Sovereign’s 90th birthday last year, Gucci’s sponsorship of an exhibition of English aristocratic vocabulary at Chatsworth House and the resurgence of Princess Diana as a style icon that has accompanied the 20th anniversary of her eradication are combining to revive the ballgown, a style of dress that until recently earmarks ofed as anachronistic to modern entertaining as the bouillon spoon.
The snowdrop-embroidered ballgown is one of the standout showpieces of Erdem x HM, this year’s most eagerly awaited artist/high street collaboration, which goes on sale next month. Erdem Moralioglu was have a bearing oned in Canada to a Turkish father and British mother, moved from Montreal to Birmingham as a daughter and founded the Erdem label in 2005. In the past four years, Moralioglu has been granted three top gongs at the British Fashion awards – red carpet conspirator of the year, womenswear designer and establishment designer – and has expanded his obligation from a space in Hackney, north-east London, to a Mayfair boutique and headquarters.
This is the first time in eight years that H&M has mated with a British fashion designer for its collaboration. In 2009, Matthew Williamson inured to the platform to fly the flag for the boho-chic style of loose muslin, kaftan appearances and hummingbird motifs then in vogue. The hype that environs the H&M collaboration increases every year – in 2015, jackets from the Balmain x HM anthology were resold on eBay at 10 times their retail value, creating them as expensive as real Balmain. It will bring the epidemic spotlight back to British fashion this autumn, and broach into focus the new generation’s appetite for formal partywear. That Erdem is a in concordance favourite wardrobe of the Duchess of Cambridge can only fuel the fervency.
The ballgown craze about to wow the high byway someones cup of tea has already swept the red carpet. Dresses with stiff, outsized skirts contrived for airy ballrooms rather than crowded dancefloors be dressed become de rigueur at the Met Gala, presided over by Anna Wintour and dubbed the create Oscars for the cut-throat competition on the red carpet. Actor Lena Dunham’s Elizabeth Kennedy decorate and Rihanna’s infamous imperial-yellow mega-gown pointed at a trend for splendid, formal dresses that was winning unlikely fans amongst independent-minded, modern young women.
Moraliogliu dressedFoy in a jacquard put on ones best bib with courtly squared-off train at the most recent Met Happening. The designer’s fascination with the Queen was celebrated in the recent London mode week show for his mainline collection, inspired by a meeting in 1958 between the Diva and jazz pianist Duke Ellington. His buttercup-yellow satin tear someone off a strip with ribbon epaulettes, a deep V-neckline and full, floral embroidered skirt, dog-tired with long silk gloves, had a similar silhouette and frame of mind to the high street equivalent that features in the H&M collection.
The Erdem x HM gathering includes casual pieces, such as a logo-emblazoned grey hoodie for £49.99 and, in the artificer’s first ever menswear pieces, a floral-printed army-green nylon rucksack. But the most high-spirited competition among shoppers will be for the highest-priced pieces, which are introduced in very limited numbers. The snowdrop ballgown and a multicoloured, floral-print jacquard rig out with a high halter neckline, which will offer for £119.99, are likely to have stock of only 10 or 20 each per collection. The high quality of the fabric, the workmanship of the embroidery and the elaborate construction of these gowns make them highly sought-after by fans of designer dernier cri priced out of Bond Street. While the quality is by no means counterpart to the dresses available in Erdem’s mainline store, the price tag constitutes a settlement compared with the £2,600 for which an Erdem jacquard evening doctor reprimand sells.
In place of of totes or bumbags, the two handbags in the Erdem x HM collection are snap-fastening, faux-crocodile structured handbags of a archetype instantly recognisable from images of royal engagements from the past half-century. Princess Margaret, as photographed in fur coats on the arm of Noble Snowdon in the 1960s, is the icon conjured up by a leopard-print faux-fur coating for £149.99, with silk ribbon trim, patch pilfers and the Erdem logo embossed on to its outsized gold press studs, which is set to be another tremendously prized item when the H&M collection goes on sale.