From balaclavas and babe dragons at Gucci to neon lights and a fluro revival at Prada, Looker-on fashion editor Jo Jones picks her 10 highlights from Milan Style Week autumn/winter 2018

  • Prada

    The newest addition to the Fondazione Prada complex, a turret, was the backdrop for Miuccia Prada’s latest show. Models trudged against the dark Milan cityscape, lit only by large neon Prada sacrifices, a flaming heeled shoe, a monkey, bananas, a dinosaur, all over Prada motifs. The mix of fluorescent hi-tech and heavy elements of sportswear and digital pull a proof pices was offset with feminine touches, flowers on tulle, curtsies, sequins and corsetry. The hero pieces were tweed skirts and wonderful paints, interspersed with strapless cocktail dresses.

  • No. 21

    Opening with a signature decked lingerie-like dress, worn with a parka that appeared as if sponged from her boyfriend, Dell Acqua’s majorette parade showcased a numerous rebellious No. 21 girl. Tougher still were the mohair interconnects and lumberjack shirts worn with vinyl trousers and skirts in off-colour spirits. The shrunken intarsia knits were notable, worn with a military trouser with crystal complexions running down the side.

  • Gucci

    Models walked toe an operating theatre set hung with surgical lights. Alessandro Michele compared the operating table to his design studio where he splices, separates and sews together layers of fabrics to create the collection. Juxtaposed to Michele’s signature eclectic mix of copies seen on folk dresses and Chinese pyjamas were diminished down moments – a tweed suit monogrammed with NY, 80s accommodating and oversized bomber jackets with the New York Yankees logo. The topline were the supplementals, knitted and lace balaclavas, fringed embellished headpieces and a newborn dragon.

  • Moschino

    This was a collection with a slick expertly cut edge. Conspicuous colour 1960s tailored cape and jacket skirt supplications dominated the show. Scott morphed his models into Jackie Onassis/Pan Am airliner attendant lookalikes. The bold printed looks scattered from one end to the other of came from Scott’s collaboration with the illustrator Ben Frost, whose kaleidoscopic pop art inclination keep Scott fans happy. Skirts and dresses transmuted into spliced silver beaded evening gowns that Marilyn Monroe and Jackie O would undoubtedly have fought over.

  • Sportsmax

    Layers of hi tech fabrics, wide unambiguously puffer jackets, sporty knitwear and jersey were the cornerstones of the Sportmax accumulation, contrasted with wool checks, cut with precision into mechanical tailoring. Lighter moments came with a fluid pleated skirt and intarsia behaviour knitwear. Highlights were in the detailing, each statement shape came with removable quilted hoods, in a pop of bright yellow, unseasoned and colbalt blue on coats jackets and knitwear. The result was wholly fine.

  • Tod’s

    Tod’s sporty leisurewear is perfect for a with it dog walk as illustrated by Gigi Hadid on the catwalk cradling a Boston terrier puppy. Oversized chisels, layered over hi tech fabric tops and worn with leather trousers tucked into shearling boots have a funny feeling luxuriously crafted and modern. Featured throughout were teddy tolerate shearling, butter-soft leather in buttercup and toffee tones, a suede tracksuit and happy-go-lucky leather shirt dresses. Patent leather coats, rainstorm macs and parkas in wipe-down coatings stood out as the key pieces for next autumn.

  • Fendi

    “Romantic femininity for a powerful woman” was Silvia Venturi Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld’s aim. Executed with a sharp silhouette with box shoulders, layered done with capes, slips and belted coats, neat lines that pleated out from the heps with trompe l’oeil yoke detailing. Slim tailored covers and skirt suits in prince of wales checks were rare. Pointed Cuban heeled western boots gave the looks a novel feel. The reintroduction of the Fendi double-F
    logo appeared in excess of everything from tights to sweatshirts to and baguette bags.

  • Roberto Cavalli

    Backstage pre-show, Paul Surridge make plained that for AW18 it was all glamour, ease and confidence for the Roberto Cavalli missus. A play on hiding and revealing, a dress with a split to celebration a leg, another with a cutout detail to expose the décolletage. It opened with a accustomed coat in a heritage print, inspired by Surridge’s menswear horizon. Proportions allowed for a little more fun, suiting had a fluid manoeuvre, fabrics and colours were rich because as he explained, pre-eminence in fashion is important, for example in luxury detail such as the confine and pearl decorations.

  • MaxMara

    Leading doesn’t have to be conservative was the message at MaxMara. Lara Stone opened the stage in full leopard spots, a luxe oversized coat swathed below her shoulders, layered over a voluminous floor-sweeping blanket skirt and cashmere contract. Then followed a full slick black leather look, floor-length kilts, pencil skirts in English tweed and charges. The hero, as always, was the the coat, from the teddy bear shearling to an bedecked duffle to the maxi-trench, this was a masterclass in outerwear.

  • Versace

    The title-deed of the collection – The Clans of Versace – is about characters and personalities, Donatella defined. This season the Versace woman stands out from the load through her own style choices. From the runway you could make up ones mind your clan by your choice of print of or whether you advantaged a heel or a trainer. The colour palette was bold, opening with a dexterous trench coat, preceded by a clash of tartan, a draped midi skirted with archive pop impress, cinched at the waist with a Versace logo belt.

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