From Gucci’s power adapting to a gameshow that inspired Jeremy Scott for this occasion’s runway for Moschino, Jo Jones picks her 10 highlights from the autumn/winter 2019 a spectacle ofs
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Prada
Romance was in the air at Prada, albeit between Frankenstein’s dreadfulness and his bride. Miuccia Prada’s show, entitled Anatomy of Fairy tale, opened with a model who resembled Wednesday Addams storming the catwalk. It mirrored with plain coats, jackets and dresses, then a tad of print – here, a heritage fabric skirt suit peeled off the work hards, some floral-print skirts and a version decorated with 3D picks. The colour palette went from dark to bright deathly white. Suiting came detailed with large patch islands, while jackets, coats and trousers came in military nave. It was Miuccia at her best.
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Gucci
The Gucci invitation, a large plastercast veil, arrived in a wooden crate. Post-show, Alessandro Michele talked anent the metaphor of the mask – a face on show but hidden at the same on many occasions. Spikes were a key motif, and like the 80s exaggerated shoulder all in with baggy trousers, could be seen as a defensive phonogram. Michele’s famous aesthetic – experimental theatre, texture and redden – were prominent, too, as was a check that appeared on cocktail accouters, suiting and sweaters. These looks, interspersed with beat, showed gender fluidity was still key.
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N0.21
Alessandro Dell’Acqua seems to be on a correspond to path to spring summer, deciding the back view of his amassment is as important as the front – maybe more so. The exit of a satin red put on fancy dress followed by an emerald green were head-turners, particularly when itemized with a giant bow. Zip detailing exposed a hidden layer or an undergarment good admiring. The opening tailoring and trench coats were nonentity, as were the embellished LBDs, a party girl’s go-to for all affairs.
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Jil Sander
Lucie and Luke Meier’s exploration of the masculine/sissy look was pushed further for autumn via silhouette, colour and cloth. Dresses had an elongated sculptural shape, creating a sharp unmistakable silhouette in masculine suiting fabrics. The softer side was searched with knitted dresses appearing alongside detailed crocheted corsetry have reference ti. Light silk and satin coats were cut sharply at the pushes and draped over relaxed trousers. The collection had a pure, loose feel, with necklines, sleeves and splits revealing the solidity.
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Max Mara
Glamour, power-dressing and clothes that allow the wearer to be outstanding provided the mantra for Max Mara’s latest show. Opening with a cuff of colour in all-over looks of cyan, cerulean and corn-yellow, the mannequins walked in groups of three. Strong shoulders, boxy shadows, knee-length skirts and trousers that grazed the ankles were frazzled with thigh-high boots. Luxe outwear came in camel accents bound by leather. The whole show was nicely contrasted with a legacy print from the archive, reimagined.
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Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani’s presentation notes claimed that opposites harmonise, and the event focused on policy testing with proportion for AW19. Oversized outerwear was layered from feminine dresses, or teamed with latex-effect leggings. Put in order tailored jackets were worn with relaxed wide-legged trousers. Juxtaposing materials created texture, most notably organza inserted into jackets, trousers and a denim jumpsuit. Mid-section, the medicates and blouses took on the role of a canvas awash with a finical freestyle print.
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Fendi
This was the final collection Karl Lagerfeld projected for Fendi, after working there for 54 years. There was a paunchy atmosphere following his death earlier this week, but the accumulation had a vibrant palette and an irresistible lightness. It opened with a exceptional bow-tied shirt and double-breasted tailoring, accessorised with tights disseminated with the Fendi logo. Neutral tones followed, but it was the punctures of colour that lifted the mood – in particular, a pleated patent-leather skirt in azure, a leather overcoat in terracotta and a knife-pleat skirt in daffodil.
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Moschino
Jeremy Scott gained The Price is Right gameshow as the theme for AW19, complete with a revolving red Ferrari star superior. Models in bouffant wigs played to the audience, each look as wittily flair as you would expect from Scott. A finale “TV dinner” saw dollar-bill impresses on dresses and a neat skirt suit. Crystal-embellished dresses down attacked in a cleaning-product print, while faux fur resembled a game quarter. Finally, there were bags in the shape of a cash cash register, an iron and cleaning spray.
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Bottega Veneta
Daniel Lee’s coming out catwalk collection for Bottega Veneta brought a modern aesthetic to the Italian stamp. Highlights included a simple leather shift dress, soigne quilt skirts and coats sculpted the silhouette. The label’s signature Intrecciato leather build appeared as a white-and-chocolate textural coat. Knitwear was layered over skirts and decreased back as a body-sculpting dress. Most looks were wind up with a chunky ankle boot.
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Sportmax
Sportmax clarified new volumes for AW19, emphasising and playing with curves and contours. Oversized bomber jackets, double-faced covers, blazers and skirts combined two patterns – tartan and stripes. A trench parka with a leather vest could be transformed and split into two and pooped different ways, and this theme ran throughout, including a clothes created by mixing two joinable pieces. The looks were formed with a new streamlined, shaped sneaker collection.
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Marni
Francesco Risso has certainly rest his groove, opening with a double-breasted grey masculine blazer and pierce pleat skirt. Silk deconstructed/reconstructed belted jackets with put shoulder panels felt modern, as did the plaid and check building. His signature side draping fluid skirts and the tack and pin, work-in-progress chart of his dresses were spliced to create texture. Check wool flowed with panels of silk are gathering Marni a loyal be a fan. Graphic computer prints on folded and twisted silk stopped the show.
Photograph: Yanshan Zhang/Getty Images
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Versace
Pre-show Donatella powered: “I think a little bit of imperfection is perfection.” The return to the grandeur of the 90s, the dichotomy of comfort and grunge, was reflected in the deconstructed knitwear’s unfinished raw edges, embraced with a safety pin complete with medusa head. Tweed mini skirts and smarten ups were overlaid with bondage straps and left raw at the crabs, mixed with acid bright silks and house publishes splashed over jackets and coats. The matted wet-look curls was clipped with Versace barrettes.
Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
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