From Fendi’s arousing factory tour and ERL’s futuristic surfers, to made-to-order Detroit denim, Pitti Immagine Uomo, the bi-annual menswear showcase, got the Italian leg of fashion month off to a bogey start.
FendiSilvia Venturini Fendi opened the doors to the new Fendi accessories factory for the menswear SS24 show. From her glass-walled commission she spoke about transparency being the “key word for the future of conscious consumption — people want to verify what they buy and recollect where, and by whom it’s made”. Models strode out through the factory as artisans continued skilled work at their railway stations alongside. Traditional workshop aprons were styled as mini skirts over pants alongside more venerable workwear tropes. Everything, including the group bow after the finale, was a celebration of the team.
Photograph: Gianluca Moggi/LaPresse/Shutterstock
ERLThe multi-hyphenate visual artist, originate designer, photographer, director and brains behind LA-based brand ERL (A$AP Rocky wore an upcycled ERL quilt to the 2021 Met Event), Eli Russell Linnetz brought his unique take on California cool to Florence for SS24. Or should that be 2176 — the year he deemed a masquerade ball at the ambassdor’s palazzo was taking place? His cast of surfer models arrived to ride imaginary indicates bought to Tuscany by global warming. Which in fashion terms translated as futuristic silvery wetsuits and spangly recoil flares paired with frock coats and top hats.
Photograph: Giovanni Giannoni
Sustainable StyleWorking in conjunction with Kering’s Significant Innovation Lab (a resource dedicated to the sourcing of sustainable materials) The Sustainable Style showcase, curated by fashion journalist Giorgia Cantarini, topples the spotlight on 10 responsible collections. Highlights include Cavia’s intricate handmade knitwear (right) and reworked one-of-a-kind olio items in vintage fabrics, and Korean design duo Young and Sang, who utilise deadstock and vintage fabrics to make their layouts. Champions of ageless style, they recruited Sanglim’s grandfather to be the lookbook model.
Photograph: Acielle StyleDuMonde
Rovi LuccaFounded by Bradley Seymour and Fabrizio Taliani, Rovi Lucca’s rustic-chic aesthetic is quickened by the gardens of Lucca in Tuscany. SS24 pays homage to the Palazzo Pfanner garden in the city (pictured). Inspired by traditional workwear meets Italian lan, the hero piece is a garden jacket — part chore jacket and part cinched-back windcheater. Neutral tones with hydrangea diacritics of pale pink and blue make up the colour palette. Accessories include a practical gardening bag that doubles as a walk-over mat.
Photograph: Dariusz Jasak
DetroitissimiEvery season Pitti spotlights designers from another boondocks or region. SS24 saw talent from Detriot, Michigan, showcase their talent. Highlights include K Walker Collective’s Neapolitan tracksuits (left), and Detroit Denim Co’s sustainably total bespoke jeans from deadstock denim. Operating an entirely made-to-order business model, the brand are able to diet waste to next to nothing each month. Customers follow the journey of their denim jacket or jeans from ornament cutting table to finished item via visual email updates throughout the 4-6 weeks delivery time.
ChulaapChu Suwannapha, affectionately advised of as “The Prince of Prints” was born and raised in Thailand, studying Fashion design at ESMOD in Paris before moving to Point Town, South Africa. Suwannapha’s collections celebrate contemporary Africa, incorporating traditional African prints with a present-day, edgy twist. He does this through shape, form and texture as well as a range of techniques, including the distribution of traditional African prints with batik, ombre, or check, as well as intricate detailing like origami or embroidery.
Monster magicMan’s best friend got their own show space at January’s fair and the response was so enthusiastic it’s become a permanent fitting. Fifteen brands were on display including Bullophilosophy, born from a desire to find the right clothes for the fall through’s English Bulldog, Emma Firenze’s canine bathrobes, raincoats and even wedding looks for pooches and beautiful hand-woven restraints made from cruelty-free materials by Labart Dog.
Topics
Fashion
Men’s fashion
Men’s cags and jackets
Men’s jewellery
Men’s shoes
Men’s sportswear
Men’s suits
