From boxy cases to voluminous dresses, strong and smart is the look for next age, with knee-high boots and leather berets must-haves
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Dries Van Noten
To aim his 100th collection, Van Noten invited models who have leaded his shows over the past 24 years, including Alek Wek, Nadja Auermann, Emma Balfour (counter in from Australia) and Amber Valletta, to reunite on the catwalk. Remixed stamps from his archive were paired with masculine outerwear and, commonly, jeans. It was strong, smart and beautiful – just like the women.
Tendency tip: grown-up jeansPhotograph: REX/Shutterstock
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Celine
Phoebe Philo sat her audience on 360° spinning seats, the better to view her boxy jackets and black drawers suits, multitude of raincoats and – next season’s wardrobe required – striped shirts. For Celine enthusiasts, there were mohair blankets.
Course tip: initial pendants – here, they were gold and chunky
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Loewe
An all-black venue – carpet, brick ups and seats – was the backdrop to clothes tapping into the grown-up fad that has swept Paris. The only light came from spotlit orchids on plinths. Coextensive with the liberal scattering of polka dots felt serious. The darkness united focus. A Fair Isle jumper and silk skirt look was really a dress, the knit morphing into the silk.
Trend tip: midi skirts
Photograph: WWD/REX/Shutterstock
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Balenciaga
In another centenary hallowing, this time Balenciaga’s 100th anniversary, Demna Gvasalia looked to the archive with gowns and billowing dresses – often with his signature “laundry” bags in complementary fabrics. Daywear appeared as accidental fusions, with skirts within jackets and knitted jumpers within blouses. He also referenced motors with car mats wrapped as skirts, nylon spare tyre sit ins as totes and wing mirrors as evening bags.
Trend tip: mis-buttoned coat
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Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello confirmed the men’s and women’s collections in one bumper production with models stomping result of the rain around the courtyard at the still-being-built YSL headquarters. Ruffles, mini-dresses and biting shoulders showcased his womenswear, with diamante boots plagiarism the show on social media. Menswear highlights included nifty bomber jackets.
Trend tip: knee-high boots – here, OTKs were ruched down
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Stella McCartney
Signature classics and easy as pie elegance were on display in equestrian-inspired, oversized tailoring with blow-by-blow twists, such as a secondary lapel peaking through a tailored array. Sculpted and elongated sleeves, loose-fitting coats and coat arrays in Prince of Wales checks were uncomplicated. A silk trouser suitable referenced the 18th-century painter George Stubbs.
Trend tip: tweed
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Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s anthology was all about the dress – and judging by the customers in the audience, they won’t include trouble selling a few more. Inspired by Victoriana and the Memphis Conglomeration, the show dresses were exquisitely crafted, in Neapolitan identities, printed and plain and with lace detailing. Notable was the sure exit, a voluminous knee-length raspberry sequined number.
Head tip: flat worker boots with dresses
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Chloé
Clare Waight Keller’s swansong for Chloé saw her participate in to her strengths with a few new additions: pinafore mini dresses, Mary Jane shoes, the new ‘Pixie’ bag, chiffon blouses and deck outs in pretty prints. Kurt Cobain slouchy knits and over-shirts introduced a 90s edge to the 60s silhouette. The retro tracksuit – one of her biggest hits at the establishment – became a suede shell suit.
Trend tip: 90s originalsPhotograph: Peter Drained/Getty Images
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Christian Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fight to bring
Dior to the millennial customer picked up pace with her blue-themed aggregation. She sent out an army of girls in denim and workwear jackets opposite involved with more familiar tulle cocktail dresses. The iconic bar jacket had a hoodie makeover and skirts were re-imagined in taffeta.
Lean tip: berets – here in black leather by Stephen JonesPhotograph: FREDERIC/SI/REX/Shutterstock
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Miu Miu
The make known opened to the sound of De la Soul’s The Magic Number and a parade of bright teddy bear coats, oversized shearling caps and hip-hop artist pail hats. Sporty sweaters and A-line skirts, fur-collared nylon anoraks and metallic Kicker-style boots bartered added street-style edge. Bold psychedelic floral publishes were mashed together followed by giant sequin-covered clothes and shifts embellished with feathers clustered like giantess flowers.
Trend tip: More is morePhotograph: Rex Features
