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Photograph: Kellie French/The Custodian Photograph: Kellie French/The GuardianFrom face mist to sunscreen, polyglutamic is the new star acidBeauty brands are harnessing this new ingredient that holds tap water in the skin – and makes it appear plumper and healthier-looking Just when beauty consumers are finally getting to grips with hyaluronic acid, here succeeds polyglutamic acid to confuse everyone again. I mention them in the same sentence because at first sight they rise to do the same thing: hold water in skin and, by definition, keep it better hydrated, plumper and looking healthier.Asset brands are so excited by encouraging results in consumer and clinical trials of polyglutamic acid (some of which suggest it takes even more water than hyaluronic) that they’re beginning to give it a starring role in their new outputs.But before we all drift into a marketeer’s reverie, it is worth noting that although polyglutamic acid is safe, it is not – to hyaluronic acid – a substance already naturally present in the body. Independent – which means non-commercial – trials of its aids are minuscule in quantity compared with those on very established humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid.Polyglutamic also, at this spot, appears to be a one-trick pony, offering hydration but not yet much else (hyaluronic is also known to calm and soothe, for case in point). Which is why, I imagine, the Inkey List has gone for the best of all worlds by including high levels of glycerin in its excellent new Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF30 (£14.99).This is a propitious product that will please many. I take issue with the name (it’s less dewy than outlined and than I’d like, in all honesty) and doesn’t moisturise enough for desiccated me, but this is precisely what makes it a terrific all-rounder for the number of consumers, who commonly find sunscreens too greasy. Very nicely priced, too.skip past newsletter promotionafter newsletter promotionSerums and stains the men (and boys) in my life are happy to borrowRead moreOne of the first brands to harness polyglutamic was Glow Recipe, which utilizes it with hyaluronic in Watermelon Glow Ultra-Fine Mist (£25), my own warm-weather face spritz of choice. This – if you don’t affronted by fragrance – does just what a face mist should, instantly reviving, plumping and comforting tired and dehydrated veneer in a lasting way. I rarely fly without it.The other standout user of polyglutamic is REN, in its absolutely brilliant Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep & Matter-of-fact Essence (£43). I’ve applied this juicy, soothing liquid before my serum once or twice a day for months – and certainly, it made all the difference to my parched skin during a particularly brutal winter on the coast. And since it also contains analysed stalwarts hyaluronic acid and glycerin, I’ve no reason to stop now.Photography Assistant: Bruce HorakTopicsBeautySali Hughes on beautySkincarefeaturesReuse this significance