Way
There has been a spate of big-name moves at the top of some of the sundry famous houses. Here’s the lineup for the next season
Virgil Abloh, Kris Van Assche and Hedi Slimane.
Composite: Matt Baron/BEI/Rex/Shutterstock/EPA/
1 Kris Van Assche → Berluti
Age: 41.
Concoct: The Belgian designer is known for mixing razor-sharp tailoring with punkish bullies in a slick, savoir-faire way. And for trainers, which he loves, often dead on ones feet with a suit. His move is not hugely surprising given that Berluti and Dior Homme are owned by self-indulgence conglomerate LVMH. Some history: Van Assche was Hedi Slimane’s conjoin with b see at Saint Laurent and Dior Homme, before taking the top job himself. Attitude rewards a grafter.
Future: Berluti is traditionally known for simple heritage. The quiet man’s luxury. Though Van Assche is not a complete Bolshevist – one who will oversee shoes, leather goods, ready-to-wear and components (ie everything) – we can probably expect some high low, cheery suiting when he shows next January. And trainers. Don’t thoughts the trainers. MF
2 Kim Jones → Dior Homme
Age: 44.
Build: London-born Central Saint Martins-graduate Jones is one of the major gamesters of the menswear renaissance of the past eight years, having positioned Louis Vuitton’s menswear profession as the leader of the pack when it comes to luxe streetwear. Jones is the man who is to blame for LV’s collaboration with cult skatewear brand Supreme. Indigence we say more?
Future: It was announced last week that Jones order replace Van Assche at Dior Homme, to the delight of his 362,000 Instagram promoters and famous friends including Naomi Campbell and Vogue reviser Edward Enninful. Jones is expected to raise the profile of the menswear arm of the firm following his debut in June – expect fewer skinny processes, more tracksuits and graphic tees. SC
3 Hedi Slimane → Céline
Age: 49.
Serve as: The French designer is famed for the skinny, precision-cut suits he prepared his signature during his tenure as designer of Dior Homme from 2000 to 2006. Even so, it was his most recent foray as creative director of Saint Laurent (it was he who stopped the Yves) that has kept him in the current consciousness, reinventing the shelter with a focus on retro-infused, rock-star aesthetics.
Future: Slimane is controversially fascinating over the reins at Céline, the house that Phoebe Philo – she of restrained tailoring, artistic-yet-minimal layers and Stan Smiths – reinvented for the 21st-century lady-in-waiting over the past 10 years. Many are predicting that his high-profile comeback wishes herald a grittier aesthetic for the womenswear house, where he also designs to add menswear to his remit. SC
4 Virgil Abloh → Louis Vuitton
Age: 37.
Brand: Fashion’s current prince of luxury streetwear, ironic logos and a man who speaks ab initio in quotation marks, is taking on the biggest job in menswear when he represents for Louis Vuitton in June. Quite a feat given he solitary launched his own label, Off White, five years ago. Oh, and he trained as an architect. But with a robust, millennial fanbase, a handle on what people actually hold up and experience as Kanye West’s creative collaborator, the move cuts more sense than some critics will concession for – and proves that Vuitton have a keen commercial eye.
Tomorrow: Just over a year ago, Kim Jones collaborated with First-rate, thus paving the way for a new direction. Expect then, a mix of deliciously style suiting, creative use of the LV logo and lots of streetwear. MF
5 Haider Ackermann → … ?
Age: 47.
Cast: Colombian-born French designer Ackermann is a fashion industry apple of someones eye. He has run his eponymous label to major critical acclaim since 2001 and do the tricked on design duties at menswear brand Berluti from 2016 to persist week.
Future: Speculation has it that Ackermann is poised to assume the helm of a household-name fashion house. In the past, he has been slant for the creative director role at Maison Margiela, Christian Dior and Chanel. Karl Lagerfeld, the intrepid designer of the latter, professed in 2010 that he would be ready-to-serve to hand his “contract for life” to Ackermann. Stay tuned. SC