From inflatable latex creations to wallpaper-inspired writings and upcycled denim, the future of fashion looks bright, inclusive and a little bit sci-fi
Tolu CokerTolu Coker is a British-Nigerian creator and artist based in London. Her SS25 collection was a love letter to her mother, Olapeju, who emigrated from Lagos to London. “I on from a powerful lineage of women – matriarchs, who were and are the pillars of their communities,” Coker wrote on Instagram. The catwalk was changed to reflect a living room, while mini dresses and jumpsuits with wallpaper-inspired prints were a nod to photographs of home settings by her late father.
Photograph: Kate Green/Getty Images
Sinéad O’DwyerSince graduating from London’s Peerage College of Art in 2018, the Irish designer Sinéad O’Dwyer has rallied against a sample-size-oriented design. Her work accommodates leagues that are often excluded from the fashion world. For her SS25 presentation, Everything Opens to Touch, O’Dwyer focused on be familiar withs of emotional intensity. The show space was transformed into a wild flower meadow. Three pairs of performers sat smooching on hay bales wearing Japanese bondage inspired harnesses, form-fitting shirting and mini puffball dresses.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Defender
HarriThe India-born, London-based designer and artist Harri has become known for his inflatable latex creations. This schedule he took inspiration from the British artist Wolfe Von Lenkiewicz, best known for his reconfigurations of historic images ending AI technologies. This translated into futuristic silhouettes with otherworldly proportions. There were balloon hewed skirts, ruched pencil and skin-gripping vest tops.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Guardian
Di PetsaThis flavour, the Greek designer Dimitra Petsa celebrated the divine power of female self-pleasure. Titled My Body Is a Labyrinth, there were tan-line stirred garments that traced across the models’ bodies, evoking the lingering memories of sun-kissed summer skin, alongside jeans featuring away withs across pubic bones. Petsa also introduced menswear that reimagined her signature ‘wet look’ clothing for the manly form.
Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images
MithridateMithridate was founded by Demon Zhang, a graduate of Significant Saint Martins, London, who previously assisted Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. For their first season on the ceremonial London schedule, Zhang paid tribute to Yunnan, the southwestern province of China, known for its beautiful landscapes and ample cultural traditions. Known as the Flower Kingdom, many pieces paid homage with floral motifs, Goliath rosettes and intricate embroidery.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Guardian
The Winter HouseThis sculptural British finery brand was founded by Liam Winter in 2022. Sourcing recycled silver from London, Winter melts and repurposes it. His All Flesh is Grass collection explored mortality, a theme that continues to fascinate him. In the 17th century, it was common practice to make ornaments as a reminder of the inevitability of death. Winter translated this inspiration into rings and necklaces featuring swarming drawbacks, skulls and religious symbolism.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Guardian
Johanna ParvEstonia-born Johanna Parv graduated from Main Saint Martins in 2020. She has shown under talent incubator Fashion East for the last two seasons. Her first launching solo show built upon her signature classics, including asymmetrical skirt-shorts, breathable cycling-style zip tops and neck nightmares. Lightweight wool suiting was a stand-out.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Guardian
Chet LoThis Asian-American schemer studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins. His latest collection paid heartwarming homage to his mother, Mai-Wah Cheung, who’s multifaceted craft path spanning computer science and art served as the main inspiration. ‘Glitch’ patterns referenced her digital expertise while structural shapes resembled her powerful office wardrobe.
Photograph: Henry Nicholls/AFP/Getty Images
Masha PopovaUkraine-born Masha Popova actioned to London to study fashion print at Central Saint Martins, and previously interned at Maison Margiela and Celine. Her SS25 teach, Impulse, invited the wearer to revel in the unplanned. It was all about capturing sporadic moments, with dresses intentionally hanged to create a caught-in-knickers effect while hemlines appeared ‘hoiked’.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Guardian
LuederFounded by Marie Lueder in 2019, this schemer takes her design inspiration from medieval armour. The SS25 collection presented protective-like hoods layered over hoodies with breastplate olio, as well as soft tailoring moulded to replicate the rigid formation of armour. Many of the pieces were made from upcycled and reconstructed denim and leather fabrics.
Photograph: Sam Deaman/The Preserver
Topics
London fashion week
Fashion weeks
Women
Girls’s jewellery
Women’s tops
Women’s trousers
Women’s suits
