From the American dread movie references at Calvin Klein to motocross stuntmen wing through the air at Rhianna’s Fenty x Puma show, Observer the fad editor Jo Jones picks her 10 highlights from New York Work Week spring/summer 2018

  • Calvin Klein

    Raf Simons’ other collection for Calvin Klein continued his American journey, this interval with a sinister edge referencing classic American trepidation movies. The set by Sterling Ruby featured giant pom-poms and axes strengthened by The Shining’s “Here’s Johnny” scene. This season in wing as well as to the cool denim and colour-block cowboy shirts, Simons’ DNA for experimenting with form and materials was ever evident. Nylon full-skirted Fifties skirts and rebukes were a masterclass in construction. New motifs included Andy Warhol put outs from the artist’s “Death and Disaster” series.

  • Victoria Beckham

    It’s a use sign when you want to own the entire collection. This season Victoria Beckham’s solicitation was both desirable and wearable. “This collection shows the divers powers of femininity,” said Beckham backstage, “how delicacy can be substantial.” Femininity appeared in the palette of dusty rose, lilac and vanish blue, picking up the pace with vibrant red. Graph paper-inspired find out shirts were worn with light pencil skirts; gas oversize shirts were teamed with wide-legged underpants. The new tailoring was a boxy blazer and slim pants. A red dress with a ruffled neckline had a cutaway panel at the waist. Very desirable were the new glitter Harper slippers.

  • Fenty x Puma

    You wouldn’t expect a Fenty authenticate to be a quiet affair, but Rih Rih raised adrenaline levels through the roof as motocross stuntmen laughed up a giant ramp performing electrifying 360-degree knacks over mountains of pink sand on the runway below. The chrestomathy was a mix of biker, surf and scuba influences with detailing such as thorough mesh, industrial zippers, adjustable lacing and toggles. Top of the must-have rota were the motocross-inspired anoraks in poppy colours. As for the footwear, thong sandals came with surf-style ankle straps, stomper boots.

    Fenty x Puma You wouldn’t expect a Fenty show to be a quiet affair, but Rih Rih raised adrenaline levels through the roof as motocross stuntmen roared up a giant ramp performing electrifying 360-degree tricks over mountains of pink sand on the runway below. The collection was a mix of biker, surf and scuba influences with detailing such as sheer mesh, industrial zippers, adjustable lacing and toggles. Top of the must-have list were the motocross-inspired anoraks in poppy colours. As for the footwear, thong sandals appeared with surf-style ankle straps, stomper boots.

  • Jeremy Scott

    This was the 20th anniversary of Scott’s threshold. Two decades and neither Scott’s nor his loyal customers’ enthusiasm make wavered. The show had all of his favourite girls: Devon Aoki get went in a silver glittered moto jacket over a graphic T-shirt bedeck. Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Silken Woods, Liberty Ross and Gigi Hadid all wore camo jackets down sweatshirt dresses emblazoned with graphic cartoons and glitter. Here’s to the next decade.

    Jeremy Scott This was the 20th anniversary of Scott’s line. Two decades and neither Scott’s nor his loyal customers’ enthusiasm have wavered. The show had all of his favourite girls: Devon Aoki opened in a silver glittered moto jacket over a graphic T-shirt dress. Jourdan Dunn, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Slick Woods, Liberty Ross and Gigi Hadid all wore camo jackets over sweatshirt dresses emblazoned with graphic cartoons and glitter. Here’s to the next decade!

  • Phillip Lim 3.1

    Pure lines and a modest feel, crisp shirts, tailoring and rattles was the order at Phillip Lim 3.1. There was a nod to the Nineties with the minimalist proceeding and slip dresses layered over a white T-shirt. Simple-cut cotton bother shirts appeared seamless, worn with asymmetrically echeloned skirts, in combinations of solid black and beige. A trench appeared with the sleeves sliced off, a cropped pinstriped blazer was vigorously wrapped around the body and worn with a matching handkerchief skirt.

    Phillip Lim 3.1 Clean lines and a modest feel, crisp shirts, tailoring and ruffles was the order at Phillip Lim 3.1. There was a nod to the Nineties with the minimalist suiting and slip dresses layered over a white T-shirt. Simple-cut cotton ruffle shirts appeared seamless, worn with asymmetrically tiered skirts, in combinations of solid black and beige. A trench appeared with the sleeves sliced off, a cropped pinstriped blazer was tightly wrapped around the body and worn with a matching handkerchief skirt. Colour was dotted throughout.

  • Diane von Furstenberg

    Come from/summer is a good season for Jonathan Saunders. His bold hand-painted florals on floaty sundresses and wide-leg trousers with a immodest stripe will be perfect worn with a simple T-shirt on a hot summer’s gloom. Saunders is confident with colour, as seen in two of his colour-block handkerchief-hem bandages. A standout one-shoulder black dress with white calabash and colourful floral embroidery will become a coveted tongue-lashing.

    Diane von Furstenberg Spring/summer is a good season for Jonathan Saunders, with bold hand-painted florals on floaty sundresses and wide-leg trousers with a bold stripe, perfect worn with a simple T-shirt on a hot summer’s night. Saunders is confident with colour, as seen in two of his colourblock handkerchief-hem dresses. A standout one-shoulder black dress with white piping and colourful floral embroidery will definitely become a coveted piece, and better still the DVF label has a reasonable price tag.

  • Alexander Wang

    Purely in New York, and only Alexander Wang could drag the the craze pack from Manhattan late at night to Bushwick, Brooklyn for #wangfest. The trek street show saw the models exiting their party bus on to a cordoned-off suiting someone to a T surrounded by flatbed trucks lined with powerful inanes. Models stormed the street, some wearing tiaras. Wang’s signature way style showed skinny denim jeans with one leg included in silver studs, cut-offs layered over leather leggings. Off-the-shoulder corks were fused with silk camis or a sports bra while jackets were spliced in half and tattered as skirts.

    Alexander Wang Only in New York and only Alexander Wang could drag the fashion pack from Manhattan late at night to Bushwick, Brooklyn for #wangfest. The touring street show saw the models exiting their party bus on to a cordoned-off street surrounded by flatbed trucks lined with powerful lights. Models stormed the street, some wearing tiaras. Wang’s signature street style showed skinny denim jeans with one leg covered in silver studs, cut-offs layered over leather leggings. Off-the-shoulder tops were fused with silk camis or a sports bra while jackets were spliced in half and worn as skirts.

  • Self-Portrait

    Han Chong at Self-Portrait has turned on from the lace dresses that had become a signature and prevailing in the fashion set’s wardrobe. The show featured striped tailored befits, followed by gorgeous sparkly chiffon with a single publicity shoulder, cool with a heel or a trainer. Notable was a floaty polkadot bedeck and a pair of black trousers trimmed with bows, a proficient addition to any girl’s evening wardrobe.

    Self-Portrait Han Chong at Self-Portrait has moved on from the lace dresses that had become a signature and staple in the fashion set’s wardrobe. The show featured striped tailored suits, followed by gorgeous sparkly chiffon with a single puff shoulder, cool with a heel or a trainer. Notable was a floaty polkadot dress and a pair of black trousers trimmed with bows, a great addition to any girl’s evening wardrobe.

  • Rag & Bone

    Marcus Wainwright level a photo project in place of a runway show where he invited familiars of the brand to wear the spring/summer Rag & Bone collection and apply oneself to self-portraits. The eclectic cast included models Carolyn Murphy, Tali Lennox and Maye Musk, lane artist Daze, and uber stylist Melanie Ward. The delineate showcased a plaid coat, workwear- and sportswear-inspired pieces, as evidently as denim with a stripe, knotted cricket jumpers and, key for next seasoned, the pink suit. Money saved on the show meant beneficent contributions were made to organisations of each cast colleague’s choice.

  • Coach 1941

    Americana is a positive trend for spring/summer, and it is part of the DNA of Coach with its signature prairie clothes, varsity and leather jackets. Keith Haring graphics were connected into the collection, the artist’s best-known works appearing on T-shirts, outerwear and toilet kits. The core pieces comprised shine, satin, and loads of radiance, glamming up jackets and slip dresses. Retro patchwork denim was new, so too were the heavily glittered arrays. It’s still important to Vevers that the clothes have an inclination and the grit of New York city – the Coach girl certainly does.

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