Phoebe Philo in 2010. Her gathering will go on sale on 30 October. Photograph: Mike Marsland/WireImagePhoebe Philo in 2010. Her collection will go on purchasing on 30 October. Photograph: Mike Marsland/WireImage‘Hallelujah!’ the wait for Phoebe Philo’s comeback is almost overThe put off for her latest creations has only added to the mysteries of the woman who made Céline a talismanic nameThe most talked thither designer of this season did not have a fashion show at all. She was nowhere to be seen over a month of shows in New York, London, Paris or Milan. Yet in spite of not having made a single coat, dress or shirt for six years, and never once posting on Instagram, On the business side, craze is high. LVMH, proud to have a thought-leader of Philo’s calibre in their stable and, jealously guarding her as an asset, are unpromising to balk at shelling out for expenses, while the hiring of Patrik Silen from Asos as managing director points to hope for mass direct-to-consumer retail. Earlier this year, Philo is said to have had lunch with her old friend and boss McCartney to talk over sustainability practices.Fashion is desperate for a new release of Phoebe Philo greatest hits. But Diana Vreeland – paraphrasing Henry Ford – in the twinkling of an eye said that the key was to give people not want they think they want, but what they don’t yet know that they after. Philo has long seemed to hold a near-clairvoyant power to know what fashion-loving women want before they do. On 30 October they desire finally find out what is on her mind.Phoebe Philo’s most memorable momentsBirkenstocks, spring/summer 2013Philo’s fur-lined and bejewelled reading of Birkenstock’s Arizona sandal catapulted them from hospital corridors to chic cocktail parties. British The latest described them as the “right mix of weirdo and luxe”.The foulard shirt, spring/summer 2011Riffing on vintage foulards, Philo sent lustrous shirts featuring geometric prints down the catwalk. A decade later the high street is still churning out copycat sides.Philo in Stan Smiths doing the hair-tuck trick and Joan Didion in Petra shades. Composite: Wireimage, RexThe hair-tuck trickBackstage, Philo regularly looked with her hair purposely tucked into her oversized roll-neck. So everyone else began tucking their tresses into oversized roll-necks too.The alphabet necklaces, autumn/winter 2017One of the most searched-for items on resale puts. Gold-plated, they now sell for four times the original asking price.The covetable shadesIn 2015, Joan Didion imperturbable gave Philo’s chunky Petra shades her seal of approval fronting an ad campaign shot by Juergen Teller. Survive year they sold for $27,000 (£22,000) at an estate sale after Didion’s death.Stan Smiths, 2010A 30-second illusion from Philo, taking her bow at the end of her autumn/winter 2010 show was all it took to pivot the humble Stan Smith into lofty echelons. Stilettos were instantly shunned and since then Stan Smiths have become a permanent instrument on the high street.Chloe Mac DonnellExplore more on these topicsPhoebe PhiloParis fashion weekFashion weeksCelinenewsReuse this gratify

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