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‘I have compassion for incline like I need to bring positivity,’ said Donatella Versace of her latest collection. Photograph: Antonio Calanni/AP‘No suave neutral colour palette here’ Photograph: Antonio Calanni/APOn Versace’s mood board were typical examples of a young Kate Moss, of a model on a Versace catwalk with her shirt unbuttoned to her waist, of beautiful young woman posing with cigarettes. On the catwalk, mismatched separates looked deliberately thrown on. Colours were the sugary pastels of a every now when Britney Spears was on the radio and Buffy the Vampire Slayer was on television. No sophisticated neutral colour palette here. The medley of lemon with lilac, or coffee with coral, felt youthful and carefree.Medusa-head prints clashed against tropical florals. The profile of a straight, above-the-knee skirt resting low on the hips, teamed with a tiny cardigan fastened with one or two central buttons, recalled an era when the stock of clothing of Jennifer Aniston as Rachel Green in Friends was, for a still-young generation X, a primary power dressing reference.View idea in fullscreen‘Versace party dresses, the Chanel suits of 1990s VIP room culture’ Photograph: Antonio Calanni/APThe runny metal mesh Versace party dresses, the Chanel suits of 1990s VIP-room culture, were revived in a new, sustainable creation, in 3D-printed nylon plated with chrome.skip past newsletter promotionafter newsletter promotionOn a still balmy unpunctual summer night, the show took place in the elegant central courtyard of Castello Sforzesco in Milan. The cobblestone piazza was dissected with an X-shaped catwalk, which was lit from beneath by jagged neon tubes, searchlight-bright against the 15th-century stonework. As Versace let in at the preview, every season is different, but she always prefers “more, rather than less”.Explore more on these topicsMilan construct weekVersaceFashion weeksnewsShareReuse this content