With its swimwear semiotics and characterisation throughout shirts, Luca Guadagnino’s film has the answers when it procures to your holiday wardrobe. You’ve seen the film, now get the look

Announce more from the spring/summer 2018 edition of The Manner, our biannual fashion supplement



Armie Hammer and Timothée Chalamet exuding trouble-free nonchalance in Call Me By Your Name.
Photograph: Co/Sony/Kobal/Rex/Shutterstock

Ever since its launch in 1999, The Talented Mr Ripley has been the perennial menswear respect for how to dress for summer, thanks to its idyllic Italian settings and preppy stock of clothing. Not any more: for 2018, the new Mr Ripley is Call Me By Your Name, the enjoyable Luca Guadagnino-directed film starring Armie Hammer and fledgling Timothée Chalamet. Yes, it was out last autumn, but certain images organize been etched on my mental holiday moodboard ever since, from, “Oh, that shirt was a bit Martine Wax yellow” to, “I’m totally into those short-shorts with baggy Oxford shirt.”

In the sharp-witted novel by André Aciman on which the film is based, tog ups are woven into the narrative. Elio (Chalamet) notes that, on his traveller, Oliver (Hammer) is wearing a “billowy blue shirt, as much as possible open collar, sunglasses, straw hat, skin everywhere”. It’s a variety that both reeks of the joy of a breezy summer wardrobe and quashes the scene for the intensity of their relationship and the role clothes coverage in the story. Though it’s set in the mid-80s, the costumes for the film, created by Giulia Piersanti, who handiworks as a designer for Céline, were not meant to be too “period-y”, she told Style. Arguably, most fall into one of two camps: quite-on-trend-actually, or banging classics.

Let’s act on with the trends angle first. The standout one is easily short-shorts. These are sported regularly by Hammer and are a big S/S 18 trend, as seen at Prada, Dior Homme and Dries Van Noten. The easiest way to flee off the slashed-to-the-thigh look is to style it with something looser on top, such as a boxy shirt.


See, simple. Photograph: Sony Picture Classics

Swimming trunks are one of the linchpins of most men’s festival ensembles. There is trunk action aplenty in CMBYN, from Elio’s Missoni-style figures to Oliver’s block-coloured sporty styles. In the novel, Elio announces Oliver’s trunk colours as indicators of his mood. Red is “bold” or “verging on gruff”, yellow “sprightly” or “funny”, green “acquiescent” and smutty a reminder to Elio of the day Oliver massages him on the tennis court. Swimwear semiotics own rarely been so intense.

On a more practical level, if you’re looking to expatiate on your trunks repertoire, check out Marané from Uruguay whose well-cut, transient swimmers come in bold block colours (including yellow for those “active” moments) and painterly prints. Chic. The choice of swimwear for men has on no occasion felt so broad, whether you’re looking for fabrics that are spirited to dry (Everest Isles), something with a drawstring waist at a courteous price (Topman) or a more flattering tailored cut (the ever principled Orlebar Brown).

Throughout the film Hammer also pleasures a variety of oversized Oxford shirts that have something of Balenciaga in all directions them. The influential label is very much backing the vast shirt with too big, slightly square short sleeves this seasonable. It’s a look dubbed a bit “dad” in fashion circles, but in the film it comes to illustrate to Elio everything about Oliver: first his breeziness, then his manliness, and absolutely, without any spoilers, their love.

In comparison, Elio’s collection of logo tees (a trend that began last age and shows no signs of disappearing), striped sleeveless tops, Lacoste polo shirts and Ray-Ban sunglasses is of a distinctly numberless youthful, carefree bent. I’m particularly into the moment he matched sets a roomy blue check shirt with a pair of printed swim briefs – it’s the epitome of throwing clothes on when you’re not bothering yourself with guide.


Short-shorts never looked so good. Photograph: Sony Pictures Classics/ Sundance

Let’s hoodwink a moment to call out one of the other shirt stars in this cloud, as seen on Elio’s dad. A deep blue open-collared number with two jumbo breast pockets, it’s very Lemaire – the chic French denomination whose clothes make their wearer look ridiculously charming at all times. Superlative for late-night candlelit vacation dinners.

But let’s return to where we started, because peradventure the most striking difference between the clothes in CMBYN and Mr Ripley is that the prior’s are more real, less done. They chime with contemporary attitudes in menswear around normal clothes: polo shirts, hi-tops with ghostly socks, faded denim – the ultimate antidote to the Instagram-friendly taste fodder and cult sneakers that have dominated of fresh. The beauty of these clothes lies in their ease, because when you’re lolling round a pool or grazing over a long sun-kissed lunch, what could be less ill than this kind of total effortlessness?

Shorts and tropical impress shirts have been arriving online since January, ammunitioning my desire. Thus far, one pair of Maison Margiela skimpy coal-black shorts has been snaffled up, while a rummage around my collection has revealed an ancient pale blue Oxford shirt, which settle upon be perfect come summer, worn all dishevelled and open with a join of sassy-coloured swimmers.