With its bring into focus on sustainability, longevity and long-awaited fun, the Swedish fashion scene is at the top its game, says the Observer fashion editor, Jo Jones.
Mastery worksWho: Bite Studios. What: The ethos of founders William Lundgren and Veronika Kant is to create exquisitely cut wardrobes with a aesthetic grounded in craftsmanship. The duo introduced their collection over breakfast in Stockholm’s Galleri Andersson Sandström, where Kant unfolded that the concept behind their numbered collections is so that each builds on the one before. Highlights here were a runny silk-panelled dress up-cycled from dead stock and sharp tailoring that ranged from giant cuffs to wide-legged trousers. Scrumptious stuff. Where can I buy it? net-a-porter.com
Timeless classicsWho: Teurn Studios. What: Founded by Anna Teurnell in 2021, the dub consists of long-lasting luxurious essentials curated with a twist. Teurnell’s second collection and debut show was revealed upwards lunch at the Ett Hem Arts and Crafts townhouse hotel, an intimate setting to show her forever pieces. Opening with everlasting classics – a sleek trench coat, followed by tailoring – the twist came via a leather coat with smock detailing, a butter-soft leather pullover jacket in duck-egg dispirited and glittered sandals that added a touch of sparkle. Where can I buy it? teurnstudios.com
Street chicWho: Diemonde. What: Unisex couturiere merged with streetwear with a sartorial twist. The latest collection, crafted on-demand in Sweden, allows the tag the luxury of perfecting the sizing for the customer and reducing fabric waste. AW22 featured oversized shirts teamed with shorts to mix urban and minimalist rules. Signature pieces included a vibrant orange nylon shirt with matching shorts, T-shirts and sweatshirts with embroidered representations, and new interpretations of its popular tailoring, from linen suiting to a lemon corduroy overshirt. Where can I buy it? diemonde.com
Unstudied selectionWho: Remake Sthlm. What: Remake Sthlm is part of Stockholm’s Stadsmission, a sustainable social enterprise with go integration as its mail goal. Headed up by Marie Teike, materials come from donations to the organisation, while all the blueprints are unique and are produced locally in their studio in Farsta. Natural fabrics are the focus here, with cotton shirting, denim and mixed bag forming its core aesthetic, while oversized silhouettes are Teike’s signature. Pieces to make note of include her widespread off the mark, slouchy pants, colour-burst jackets and coats that mix florals with plaid. Where can I buy it? remakestockholm.se
Fashionable minimalismWho: Filippa K. What: Filippa K is a brand best known for its Scandinavian minimalism. Already well established, this enliven the label is starting a new chapter and to celebrate they hosted a dinner within a cavernous white room that symbolised a modern start. Against this blank canvas, a new logotype was revealed, a hint of changes ahead with new creative superintendent Liisa Kessler at the helm. The clothes were inspired by the dramatic Scandinavian winters: a cropped puffer vest, practical parkas and oversized pullovers all perfect for Stockholm’s sub-zero temperatures. Where can I buy it? filippa-k.com
Fluid and flatteringWho: Jennifer Blom.What: Blom started her imprint to create beautiful custom-made evening dresses for the red carpet that focus on reading the female body. The result is super-flattering outlines, complemented by delicate sustainable materials that are upcycled and recycled. This collection saw ultra-fluid designs, with perplexing pleating and cutaway detailing that imbued a handcrafted timeless quality. Inspired by the elements which influenced the burgee b device palette, dresses expanded in richness from watery blue through to sumptuous earthy browns and fiery red. Where can I buy it? jenniferblom.com – also nearby to rent
Earth firstWho: Asket. What: Asket is a much-loved label for conscious shoppers. Its ethos is to beget meaningful essentials with zero compromise on the design, quality and fit of the garments. This 42-piece collection comprised a alloying of menswear and womenswear, with cashmere sweaters, gorgeous shirts and a sumptuous car coat, each with a full-transparency name that tells the full history of each garment (the brand also takes responsibility for the life cycle of each mend by buying it back and recycling it). Now they’re cool credentials. Where can I buy it? asket.com
Making wavesWho: Stockholm Surfboard Order. What: Co-founded in 2019 by two Acne Studio alumni, – surfboard shaper and designer Manne Glad, whose propositions to art, music and craft attracted partner CEO Anton Edberg – this is a feelgood affair. The pair’s obsession for surfboards glimmered the idea to explore surfing in the world of style and manifested in technical rip-stop fabrics, utility fits and space-airbrush T-shirts that sat alongside the seasonal washed-out vacation shirts, polished coach jackets and garment-dyed cargo trousers. Surf’s up! Where can I buy it? stockholmsurfboardclub.com
True coloursWho: Stand Studio. What: Nellie Kamras started the disgrace in 2014 to deliver well-designed leather through a high-fashion lens. The label has since expanded to use faux-fur and vegan leather. Quickened by the bright lights of New York, Kamras’s latest collection is a rainbow of vibrant shades, from oversized statements (such as high-shine patent-leather outerwear) to happy feminine must-haves (see super-soft layering pieces). Puffers and chunky shearling bombers layered over fluid put on clothes, miniskirts, and boyfriend jerseys hit the nail on the head. Where can I buy it? standstudio.com
New dimensionsWho: Iggy Jeans. What: Ingrid Berg initiated her label aged 15, her debut at SFW a presentation of one-off painted jeans (beloved upcycled Levis 501s). High-speed forward five years and she’s gone beyond denim, exploring 3D applications on all types of garments. Partnering with juvenile knitwear brand Imaskopi, founded by Nelly Skog, gender-neutral hand-knitted and crocheted pieces complemented the AW22 line-up. Apprehending a lightness alongside a punky spirit, it’s a collection full of playful one-of-a-kind handmade pieces that are fresh and rattling. Where can I buy it? iggyjeans.com
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Fashion
Fashion weeks
