With its starry frow, self-referencing logo, mammoth sleeves and saturated colours, the Gucci show was a feast for the sidelong glances. Here is what we learned from the Florence cruise parade

A model on the catwalk inside the city’s magnificent Palazzo Pitti



How to Guccify Florence: a model on the catwalk inside the city’s awe-inspiring Palazzo Pitti.
Photograph: Maurizio Degl’Innocenti/AP

Gucci coast: ironic logos, rainbow colours and ‘Guccification’

With its starry frow, self-referencing logo, superhuman sleeves and saturated colours, the Gucci show was a feast for the eyes. Here is what we well-informed from the Florence cruise show

Matching your trousers to the carpet is the new ‘I’m with the group’

Jared Leto would like you to know that he is the planet’s biggest Gucci cheerleader. One-time displays of his devotion include the moment, at Gucci’s spring/summer 2017 menswear be conspicuous that the sight of a kermit-coloured military coat on the runway inspirited such untrammelled delight that Leto’s face became a Meme.

Jared Leto //Gucci Journey 2018 #gucci #guccicruise #guccicruise18 #guccicruise2018 #jaredleto

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Jared Leto at the Gucci cruise show.

This nonetheless, Leto has upped his game by matching his marigold yellow trousers to the venue’s marigold yellow carpet. This presents that Leto is not just another celebrity seat-filler; he is matey plenty with Gucci wunderkind Alessandro Michele to get inside info on how his fit outs will play with the furnishings. A bold superfan turn.

You need to have an opinion on the meaning of ‘Guccy’

A model at the Gucci cruise 2018 show in Florence, Italy.

Guccify yourself! A subject at the Gucci cruise 2018 show in Florence, Italy. Photograph: Venturelli/Getty Metaphors

The new Gucci knows what it is doing with logo T-shirts. Its red and nave striped T-shirt with gold branding has sold out lovely much everywhere, despite costing £370. Now, like so sundry other brands, Gucci is taking its logos in a knowing, ironic operating, riffing on its branding with the new logos unveiled in this sail show: Guccy, Guccification, and Guccify Yourself.

The new logo: a Guccification bag.

The new logo: a Gucci bag transfers the message. Photograph: Pietro D’aprano/Getty Images

Immediately the chin-stroking began, in fashion circles, on the meaning of these new logos: was it a indication to James Franco’s Funny or Die sketch, in which the actor cannot proclaim the name of the brand? A take on Crucify, a song Tori Amos think nothing ofed at the brand’s February after-party? Actually, “Guccification” is a term that has been old for decades, often as a bit of a diss, meaning too much bling, or too much Gucci. (Here it is charged to Yves Saint Laurent as an expression of disappointment with his ready-to-wear type). Clearly, Michele is reclaiming it.

The cruise show venue-off prolongs

The big luxury brands are currently engaged in a game of around-the-world oneupmanship, declaiming cruise shows in ever more staggering locations. Gucci has already done Westminster Abbey (the Reverend Peter Owen-Jones memorably compared the grouping to “selling our soul for a pair of trousers”). This in days of yore, Michele originally wanted to stage this show in the Parthenon in Athens, because, he give the word delivered: “At the beginning, everything started in the Mediterranean, the Greek and Roman customs. But we couldn’t have Athens, so I went to the next big step in civilisation, the Restoration.”

A little bit of everything – capped off with a headdress covered in pearls.

A little bit of everything – capped off with a headdress covered in wonders. Photograph: Venturelli/Getty Images

The venue, then, was Palazzo Pitti’s showy Palatine gallery, where models walked past palatial frescoes and paintings. A poem was embroidered into guests’ rainbow-coloured stools, written by Lorenzo de’ Medici in the 15th century. It announce: “How beautiful our Youth is/ That’s always flying by us/ Who’d be happy let him be so:/ Nothing’s unshakeable about tomorrow.” True and arty.

Dressing-up box meets Gucci bumbag mash

Here are the key visual takeaways that could soon effect your look. For starters, baseball caps are huge. Michele wore a teal-coloured Yankees cap to catch his bow; the show invitations were Gucci-logoed linen caps embroidered with butterflies and each invitee’s prominence. There was also a preponderance of Game of Thrones-style long rake someone over the coals; a riot of highly saturated colour; Dapper Dan-style logoed oversized sleeves; Mr Motivator-esque bumbags and unctuous moneybelts, turbans, military coats, bomber jackets, metallics … The entirety, basically, including an entire head decorated with treasures, the look we are keenest to see Leto try next.

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