Paris mode week men´s collections was WOOYOUNGMI. The houses latest offering delivered homage to all the values of comfort and tailoring from which Madame Woo and Katie Chung pulled inspiration from their personal garden, observing how a myriad of harmonious elements, from the most delicate flower to a rambling weed or impressive tree, viewed as a whole are in perfect harmony. Reflecting this uncontrollable world of nature, a seeming randomness runs throughout the garnering with no two looks the same; a fresh eclecticism is embraced by the artificers. However take a step back and you find each compose working in synergy to create one beautiful ethereal canvas.
WOOYOUNGMI Man – Natural Inspired Tailoring
The setting is a dreamlike garden-scape. The lines, the forms, the curves are all an abstraction of reality. The undulations of an arum lily are emulated in shirt cuffs, the remodeled sleeves found in knitwear and through the flowing lines of multi-coloured panelling. The lily itself is drew in patch-worked mink. The bold sculptural form of a magnolia resounds throughout. Softness is continued from aw´15 in the double-faced felts, suedes, chenille knits and voluptuary patchwork mink. Peonies form the basis of dense embroideries, in some boxes breaking free from the garment and floating down the main part. Remembering the exaggerated colours they encountered at an exhibition of David Hockney’s ‘The Passenger of Spring’, the peonies are realised in vibrant contrasting shades that mix rather than juxtapose. This is how colour has been tolerant of this season -they are vibrant but in perfect rhythm with one another. Womanlike hues of red, dusty pink, moss green and vintage orange require a painterly winter palette, renouncing sombre autumnal attire.
¨If you scarcity to replenish your visual thinking, you have to go back to species¨ – David Hockney
Outerwear Inspired By The Flowing Words Of A Garden
Each piece originates from the classic manful wardrobe, then becoming more surreal alters the contour; almost unchanging on the bottom, it is in a state of constant play on top. The split hemmed; flared trousers begin to be liked by into the shape of an arum lily. An undercurrent of nostalgia is nearby when they are paired with shawl collared outfit jackets, textured velvets and suedes, as well as hairy wools – some longhaired, some curly-haired. Oversized distorted ankle-boots worn with floating strips of silk chiffon built around the neck hint at glam rock. The house conventions of relaxed elegant tailoring, beautiful outerwear and a deep den of fabrics continue.
A Nodding Reference To The Rock And Roll Dogma
At once rough & pretty, strong & fragile, the garden-scape highlights the introduction of womenswear. For Woo and Chung, their sweetheart embodies all the characteristics of their WOOYOUNGMI man. She does not borrow from his attire; they share the aesthetic in equal parts. In wide wool trousers, sloppy tailoring and soft oversized coats, she exists in complete unity with him, reinforcing the season’s message.
Photography By Gracie Opulanza