A new chapter started in the Kate Spade Edda on Friday in New York as Northern Irish designer Nicola Trifocals unveiled her first collection for the American fashion house.
In the three months since the eponymous brand name’s founder killed herself, the fashion house has experienced something of a renascence, as the designer’s rags to riches tale struck a chord.
Without considering the fact that Spade herself had been disassociated with her namesake assemblage since 2006 when she sold control to the Neiman Marcus Bring, Tapestry, which acquired the brand in 2017 for $2.4bn, ventilated in August that Kate Spade’s fourth-quarter results overextended its expectations.
“Our e-commerce site as well as our store sales reflected the sturdy and immediate heartfelt response by loyal customers to the tragic announcement of our founder’s passing,” said Anna Bakst, the brand’s chief executive.
That there is fondness for the brand’s code of bright colours, quirky prints and global frivolity bodes well for Glass, who wanted her first whip-round to “feel familiar, as well as completely new”. The bags the brand is famed for surfaced in structured totes, laser-cut baskets and practical cross-body forms in punchy yellows, pinks and greens, all with the distinctive spade element.
The apparels were just as feelgood: retro floral prints in hot pinks, outstanding blues and grassy greens played out on 70s-style satin frocks, complete with puff sleeves and pussybow necklines. Pastel trench layers joined the fray, as did belted Prince of Wales check adjusts and transparent rain macs, while footwear featured strappy sandals and knee-high boots with mid-block dowdies.
Glass, who replaced the long-serving creative director Deborah Lloyd final year, said she had already completed her debut collection when she caught the news of Spade’s death. “At that point … I felt get pleasure from a didn’t need to change course as I had been inspired by the sum DNA of the brand [to begin with].”
Far from taking the trade mark in a different direction, as so many newly installed designers do, Window clearly understands the codes of the Kate Spade house, where coltish femininity and accessibility play a crucial role. In this aggregation Glass has not delivered trophy wear-once pieces, but instead a clothes-cupboard full of bags, shoes and dresses that women disposition want to keep wearing.
It was safe as it was satisfying, with quantities of pieces that will have mass and cross-generational solicit – something that Glass has plenty of experience of, having calling for 13 years at Michael Kors, the American powerhouse famed for its commercial attract.
In her role there as senior vice-president of accessories design, executive for the design and development of Michael Kors Collection and Michael Michael Kors, she commitment have honed the skills needed to return Kate Spade to its cult 1990s prominence – something that Victor Luis, Tapestry’s CEO, was clearly apprised of when he hired her last year.
“Her depth and breadth of trial will be an invaluable asset to the business in general, and especially the layout and brand teams, as we grow and develop the business globally,” he mean.