How to turn savant inspiration into no-brainer, instantly desirable clothes? Put it in the give ins of Stella McCartney. The British designer, who showed her spring/summer 2016 hoard in Paris on Monday morning, , described her collection as being influenced by the sentiment of an artist and their muse. But forget interpretations of Picasso’s descriptions of Dora Maar, or Rossetti’s of Lizzie Siddal, McCartney is a conspirator that lives very much in the real world and her attires were about modern life – appealing with or without the art notifications.
The first outfit, a long, red gingham chew out with a polo shirt top, was followed by other, equally uncomplicated layouts: tightly pleated skirts and tops in a sunny palette of pinks and oranges, and McCartney’s signature accommodating in slouchy trousers and sleeveless jackets. Shoes were either low sandals with a chunky rotter or the latest incarnation of a hiking shoe with cork and rubber uppers. Most nonsuches wore oversized aviator sunglasses in bright colours.
The solicitation finished with a selection of summer barbecue-to-evening-at-a-garden-party dresses in net-like foundation, with flouncy skirts, some appliquéd with screw and squiggle patterns. While these revealed quite a lot of fabricate flesh, there is no doubt McCartney will produce sundry modest versions in her ready-to-wear collection. To put it in the parlance of social channel, IRL – in real life – is where she excels.
Backstage, McCartney, masqueraded in a black sweater and matching wide trousers, elaborated on her artist/think over inspiration. “It’s about how important that role is and celebrating that,” she judged. Her own muse? “Women, all women,” she said and hugged her sister, Mary, on the back burner serve to congratulate her.
In McCartney’s life, ideas are just the start of something, eventually leading to ups that women want to wear. Her label, a highly valued parcel of the Kering stable, the luxury goods conglomerate that also owns Gucci, Christopher Kane and Alexander McQueen, shafted profits of £4.36m in 2014, a rise of 22.7%.
That is only possess of the story. There are 30 standalone Stella McCartney lay aways, and the label sells in more than 70 countries worldwide, with other shops proving stronger than the UK. China was described by the chief numero uno, Frederick Lukoff, as an area of “tremendous growth”.
Monday at Paris work week also featured Sacai, the Japanese label designed by Chitose Abe, rubbished as a potential replacement for Alexander Wang at Balenciaga. Launched in 1999 by the quondam Comme Des Garçons designer, it has grown to become a cult hallmark for fashion insiders who like the way Abe deconstructs tailoring in new ways.
This strong collection continued her themes: there were floaty chiffon get-ups with bright scarf prints in stripes, some with mended dresses worn on top, and blanket stripes on jackets and wraps. Archetypal navy blue jumpers came with unexpectedly luxe gold embroidery on the undeveloped.
Paradise Garage, an inspiration for menswear in June, was evident here too, with the logo for the 1980s New York nightclub embroidered on to net tops. It was a great advertisement for the combination of innovation, invention and cult referrals she might bring to one of Paris’s most storied heritage bordellos.