Find fault with the Olympics, but bronze tends to be considered an also-ran. It’s third put ones finger on on the podium, it’s prehistoric technology. It’s not, for most men, the first choice when picking a observe. But then, most men are magpies, attracted to anything that glitters. And still bronze may lack shine, it’s horology’s most singular metal.
Watchmakers disposed to gold and stainless steel because they’re unreactive. They’re burnished, but sterile. Copper lives. It reacts with your veneer to develop a patina that’s distinct to its wearer, a record of its relationship with his wrist. It’s also emphatic, antimagnetic, and won’t corrode in seawater. Hence its popularity with millenia-old boatbuilders and decade-old naval take note of brands.
But perhaps most importantly, when everyone else is garb gold, silver and steel, repping bronze on your wrist appears that you don’t follow the crowd. So embrace your inner Captain Nemo and be a party to the bronze age.
Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition
Carl Brashear was the US Argosy’s first amputee diver and the first African-American to qualify as a Supervisor Diver, in 1970. Based on Ori’s fantastic Sixty-Five, this surcharge is fittingly nautical, from the dark blue dial – it’s the eventually colour you can see underwater – to the engraving of Brashear’s diving helmet on the dirk caseback.
And at a subtle 40mm, it’s the play between navy and bronze that champions out. Not the size.
Available at Goldsmiths, priced £1,900.
Tudor Black Bay Bronze
Every translation of Tudor’s much-praised Black Bay model elicits the “oohs” and “aahs” of a nobleman birth. But this beauty, announced at BaselWorld back in Trek, is particularly deserving of hyperventilation, for its marriage of classic dive care for design and rustic colours.
It features Tudor’s new in-house action, encased in a bronze alloy that patinas evenly, choose than in blotches. It even comes on a version of the parachute compressible French sailors wrapped around their wrists, since their peer ats weren’t issued with straps. This is updated inheritance done perfectly.
Available soon from Tudor, figured £2,750.
Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3-Days Power Conserve Automatic Bronzo
Panerai is best known for supplying timepieces to Italian frogmen in Era War II, a heritage that’s schooled it in the ways of bronze timepieces.
The Submersible Bronzo printing’s dial is a pool of green, in a beefy port-hole of a case that last will and testament look better with every passing year. It’s that bronze make all others aspire to.
Available at Panerai, priced on request.
Squale Expert Master Bronze
A little known company with a diving life dating back to 1950, Squale make some of the coolest keep ones eyes peels to have plumbed the ocean depths. The brand is developing a cult devote oneself to in the watch world, thanks to bakelite bezels and Spartan constructions that would pass muster with Jacques Cousteau himself.
Oh, and FYI: don’t chagrin yourself by saying it wrong amongst the cognoscenti – it’s pronounced ‘Skwah-lee’.
Accessible at Page & Cooper, priced £2,060.
Helson Stingray Bronze
Developed by a bunch of like-minded dive enthusiasts, Helson hasn’t been for everyone long but is already carving out a niche in the dive watch sector. Its varied affordable models use Miyota movements to keep the cost down, but at the elaborate end of the price scale you’ll find the trusty Swiss ETA 2824-2, which is advantaged by a multitude of high-end brands for its reliability.
The Stingray Bronze blame succumb to in a 43mm or 47mm case and an array of dial options, from muted direct colours to a blue or green rippled-water effect.
Available at Helson, priced £925.
U-Boat Chimera Chrono Bronze
There’s uncountable bronze on this 46mm horological hunk than around the necks of the British Olympic platoon. Unfairly deemed a poor man’s Panerai by some, U-Boat is for the man who analogous ti chunky, attention-grabbing watches, and thinks the cast of The Expendables tip-off the way in the style stakes.
Also, unless you’ve asked your fashion to add an extra three-inches to your shirt cuff, the only habit you should wear this with is a wet-suit.
Available at The Sentinel Gallery, priced £7,000.
Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 44
German-owned, Swiss-made Steinhart is in the most suitable way known as a homage brand, selling quality but affordable interpretations of definitive divers and pilots watches.
This no-nonsense, manual-wind Fleiger is Teutonic observe design at its best, boasting a 44mm, solid bronze satined pack and crisp markings on a metallic grey dial. It’s also got an exposition caseback, for nerds who like to see what’s going on in the engine dwelling.
Wear in the boardroom or the bar.
Available at Steinhart, priced €470.
Bulgari Gefica BiRetro Safari
Bulgari bringa a bit of bling to its bronze artifice with this trend-bucker. It was one of the last designs by legendary watch-designer Gerald Genta. Unrefined. Touch of art deco. Hands that look like Coca-Cola can ring-pulls.
Depending on your context, he’d either reached the apex of his illustrious career, or completely adrift the plot. Either way, it will get you noticed.
Available pre-owned from about £7,000.