Models for Gucci autumn/winter. Photograph: Sipa/Rex Shutterstock
1. Gucci on the stiff street
If you’ve seen any of the following in Zara or Topshop – shaggy faux-fur covers, pussybow blouses or floral dresses that look take pleasure in 1970s upholstery – then you’ve already spotted the beginnings of the Guccification of the turned on street. This is all thanks to the brand’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, who has transmogrified Gucci from a purveyor of bling-tastic yacht chic to a haven for appealing geeks, and has won the hearts of the fashion industry in the process. High-street honours are everywhere; spectacles and a bobble hat are the finishing touches.
2. The muse
The form industry has decreed that Wes Anderson’s most stylish unfitting, Margot Tenenbaum, is this season’s muse; her shabby fur paints and grubby eyeliner exactly what the industry wants to obtain right now. We don’t disagree, but we think the much-missed Deirdre Barlow is an disregarding nevertheless more apt inspiration: she did oversized glasses and prim blouses on a 1970s north-of-England budget while Anderson was placid in short trousers.
3. The fantasy ride
This Ford Fairlane 66, organized with Lara Stone in the current H&M advert, encapsulates all you necessary to know about the bleached-out vibes fashion is feeling for autumn/winter, in motor give form.
4. But are we doing the 70s or the 80s this season?
Forget the Labour leadership – this is the pivotal debate of the moment. Actually, we’re doing both. Most of the latest thing has been mining the 70s in a big way, but Jonathan Anderson has gone to the 80s. Think multicoloured oversized jackets, baggy knee-high boots and leviathan mismatched plastic earrings at his eponymous label, JW Anderson, and neon zigzag swaths, big-shouldered coats and lurex dresses at Loewe, where he is also originative director. This is entirely wearable if you don’t go too OTT: Zara’s matching lurex pleated skirt and top is a considerable place to start.
5. Clever knitwear
Fashion and culture non-standard like bizarrely convinced that the thicker your knit, the sharper your percipience, with Aran jumpers and cable knits used as shorthand for authenticity and gen. See: Max Mara’s autumn/winter collection, which was inspired by Marilyn Monroe’s Ulysses-reading bookish side and the black-and-cream chunky cardigan she put oned in her final windswept photoshoot, and Ben Whishaw’s stripy woollen barricade, worn as brainiac Q in upcoming James Bond film Bogyman. This is an easy one to recreate on the high street, particularly from October, when enjoyable knits take centre stage in the much-anticipated collaboration between ancient Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire and Uniqlo.
6. School-bully skin of ones teeth
So-called “meh” curls has recently been huge in fashion. Figuratively, not literally – this affable of ’do is flat and messy; exactly the opposite of that big, bouncy, blow-dried, X Part judge look. Trust Mrs Prada to be first to rebel, tipping models with severely scraped-back ponytails. We’re calling this school-bully tresses, because we last saw it in the toilets at school, when we were being relieved of our lunch coins. Try it if you dare: great for emphasising cheekbones, terrible for reviving bad recollections and causing migraines.
7. Poking your collar over your barricade is a thing again
Of all the assertions levelled at Rebekah Brooks, this may not be the one you remember, but in 2012 the mode industry accused the former News of the World editor of profit off the Peter Pan collar. Finally, fashion has recovered enough to tender a similar look – pointed collars in interesting fabrics (chainlink metal, chartreuse silk and streaked cotton at Prada, Dior and Miu Miu) layered over snakeskin pinafores or thin-knit jumpers, present all the joys of a collar with none of the Leveson-inquiry associations.
8. What’s the overlay of the season?
If Withnail checked into the Respected Budapest Hotel, this what he would wear: brown, oversized, a bit military, entirely Gucci. Zara has the perfect one, available at the end of September; there are similarly oversized maxi covers at M&S and & Other Stories.
There has been much debate greater than whether 2015 is the Chinese year of the sheep, goat or ram, but in shape there is no such ambiguity. Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen was photographed for the engulf of the Wall Street Journal’s style magazine wearing a dishevelled white coat and cradling an adorable lamb with sooty paws; turbo-vegetarian and anti-fur activist Stella McCartney put faux fur on her catwalk for the before all time. Resistance to faux fur, and faux shearling, seems impotent.
10. Is the polo neck still on-trend?
Polo necks deliver become so ubiquitous that at Emilia Wickstead’s last create week show, Charlotte Dellal, Yasmin and Amber Le Bon, Daisy Lowe and Alexa Chung set up themselves in a five-person front-row polo-neck pile-up. But fashion tranquil loves them: Loewe, Jonathan Saunders and Victoria Beckham are volume the dozens of designers still producing them and, in November (UK report), Michael Fassbender will pull on a polo neck for the Steve Headaches biopic.
11. WTF is Dark Victoriana?
There has been a lot of talk alongside this trend in the style mags – think of Miss Havisham’s lines dyed black, all dark layers of lace and mesh – but it is in all likelihood best ignored until party season. This is flush gothic. FKA twigs did it brilliantly at the MTV Video Music awards on Sunday ceaselessly; a less naked version would be just the thing the best-dressed bodily at the office party might wear this Christmas.
12. Timing is the entirety
While the glossy publications are shouting about the new season now, there are still months in the past some of the best pieces hit the shops. Take Topshop’s resource collection, in store on 14 November, which is a riot of absent-mindedly 70s unexpectedness: its pink crushed-velvet suit goes against historic ideas of good taste and judgment and will be all the more loved by the the latest thing crowd for it.
13. Sheer black tights are back
British Fad’s September issue decrees it so. Pair them with something bruiser and modern – such as ankle socks and Doc Martens – rather than anything too trenchant, or you may find the Melanie-Griffith-in-Working-Girl overtones overwhelming.
14. Balmain for H&M
Every ripen, one designer/high street collaboration causes panicked shoppers to elbow each other in the obverse, and this November it will be Balmain for H&M. The brand is all about up-market, body-hugging, high-octane glamour – its key proponents are Kim Kardashian and Kendall Jenner – so this is a rare endanger for fans to own a piece of a collection that is usually several zeros out of their bonus range.
Here is another vogue spawned by Gucci, which did eccentric versions with jocular tufts of fur spurting out of them. There are some brilliant models on the high street, too, particularly at & Other Stories – fur-free but righteous as comfy and winningly nerdy.
16. Dressing for Instagram
The peacock has been an endangered species for a few seasons in fashion, with even the exhibitionists of London model week tending to be swathed in navy-blue cashmere. This salt, though, maximalism has returned, with outre accessories, disrespectful patterns, bold shapes, bright colours and a hodgepodge of 70s and 80s arranges defining the season. Many place the blame at Instagram’s door, and some of the most eye-catching mentions seem to have been designed with “likes” in retain. Examples: Anya Hindmarch’s autumn/winter collection – all “Men at Exertion” and speed camera road signs, with the odd custard cream lay hold of – and Moschino’s emoticon-emblazoned backpacks, plus Topshop, Monki and New Look on the intoxicated street.
17. The boot debate
Fashion says this is the season of the over-the-knee or mid-calf boot but, in corporeal life, something a bit easier to wear and more flattering is sure to take precedence. We’re betting on the classic patent Chelsea boot, which resolve protect you from puddles while offering a pared-down counterpoint to other sartorial enquiries.
18. The Mansur Gavriel bucket bag
These fetch £325, a lot less than most fashion “It” bags, but are the most talked-about totes of the trice. Last season they sold out and are still changing participations for more than £400 online; the next drop be strikes to at the end of September.
19. Styling tips courtesy of Hillier Bartley
Antediluvian Marc by Marc Jacobs duo Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are motor boat their own label this season, and the styling represents the louche, eclectic property fashion is desperate to achieve now: silky blouses tucked into trousers; three inches of virginal socks above black loafers; majorette fringing on captures and coats; maxi coats tied with what look strain curtain ropes.