The Frow at Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan show – the fashion domicile flew in a host of millennial celebrities.
Photograph: Dolce & Gabbana
This was meant to be Fad’s year. The British version of the magazine turned 100, dnouement developing in, among other celebratory goings-on, an exhibition at London’s Resident Portrait Gallery, Vogue 100: A Century of Style, too revealing the story of one of the world’s most influential magazines. But a turn of affairs, and the social media reaction, threw a stiletto at the brand’s well-manicured following appearance and demonstrated very publicly an insurgency that is directed way next to the catwalk.
During a round-table discussion about Milan the go week, editors on Vogue’s American edition gave their positions on style bloggers, and it was damning. Questioning the street-style business facsimile of wearing paid-for brand placements, they used descriptors as if “desperate” and said it “herald(ed) the death of style”. In response, set blogger Susie Bubble tweeted: “The fashion establishment don’t after their circles enlarged and for the ivory tower to remain valid that. Towering and impenetrable.”
The incident highlighted how the ground under the establishment’s feet has shifted this season. See-now-buy-now and genderless catwalks press reflected economic and social shifts towards a younger mindset, while Globule’s point about enlarging circles could equally infer from as a comment on what’s been happening on the front row (the “Frow”) in this summer’s worldwide fashion shows.
Traditionally the place where old Hollywood fascination mixed with fashion journalism, the Frow has shifted its allegiances, actively courting a younger and sundry social media-savvy crowd. Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan the rage week show was an extreme example of this. It saw the fashion whore-house fly in a range of millennial celebrities, such as Cameron Dallas, Lily-Rose Depp, Charmed Blue Smith and Rafferty Law, to sit in pride of place. The Frow looked a particularly large group selfie, where mainstream norm journalists were relegated to the second row.
Meanwhile, the kitschy, high-energy visuals featured street dancers, model Hailey Baldwin and a pre-show soundtrack of Justin Bieber, apiculate attempts to capture not just hearts and minds but the smartphone’s lens too. As the contrast c embarrass came to a close, exiting fashionistas, such as Anna Wintour, were met by hives of pre-pubescent girls screaming not for her but for the heart-throbs they follow on Vine or Instagram. It was Beatlemania for Contemporaries Z.
Backstage before the show, Stefano Gabbana admitted that the docket was trying to appeal to a younger market. “We looked at the millennials [for ardour],” he said. “Everyone wants to be young.”
The appeal to the fad labels is clear: a Frow full of social media-savvy celebs sires publicity and generates sales. “Vloggers, Viners and Instagram celebs all but exist for endorsements,” says Malcolm Mackenzie, editor of We Have a passion Pop magazine. “They don’t have a day job, like shooting a movie, to get in the way of self-promotion, because self-promotion is their day job.”
But organizing the seating plan of the Frow can be a tricky jigsaw to solve. “My belief is that it’s always a balance – you want heavy-hitter celebrities, but the revisers are just as vital with huge followings, too,” says Mandi Lennard, look PR and consultant. “It’s a delicate balance, as you don’t want to make an editor want neglected.”
But perhaps editors just need to adapt to the circumstances: 2016 has seen the fashion industry focus on young personalities who fit the Hailey Baldwin template: heritage names with big-hearted social media followings. “Stars like Dallas beget a direct line to millions of fans who avidly watch all they do, so it’s a no-brainer for business to want in on the action,” says Mackenzie. Happenings c belongings can only get younger.
MEET THE MILLENNIALS
1 Thylane Blondeau, 15
She modelled at a Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit aged four and caused controversy with her appearance in a Prevalence Enfants editorial aged 10 that some called sexualised. She is signed to IMG Sculpts and has a burgeoning film career.
2 Des Lewis
Senior style managing editor, Marie Claire.
3 Anne-Marie Curtis
Fashion director, Elle UK.
4 Rebecca Lowthorpe
Shape director, Grazia UK.
5 Zoey Deutch, 21
This actress is the VIP of TV show Ringer and is set to star in the JD Salinger biopic, Rebel in the Rye, with Nicholas Hoult.
6 Dylan Jagger Lee, 18
The son of Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee did his outset fashion spread for Nylon magazine and recently appeared in a video for Saint Laurent.
7 Brandon Thomas Lee, 20
The hoarier son of Anderson and Lee is another model, signed to Next LA/IMG and has been concatenate with Justin Bieber’s ex, Sofia Richie. Was on the Frow at the Dolce & Gabbana appear.
8 Sonia Ben Ammar, 17
French singer, actress and model relinquished to IMG. Used to date Brooklyn Beckham.
9 Isabel Getty, 22
Heiress, Tatler top star, New York University student and singer (under the handle Izzy Getty).
10 Talita von Fürstenberg, 17
The granddaughter of designer Diane von Fürstenberg is a mannequin who started working for Hillary Clinton’s campaign.
11 Rafferty Law, 19
Son of Jude Law and Sadie Frost and, yes, another original, has walked for DKNY and Dolce & Gabbana.
12 Zara Larsson, 18
Swedish caroller and songwriter, NME cover star and Best New Artist nominee at the MTV VMAs. Has 1.9m pupils on Instagram.
13 Luka Sabbat, 18
With 184,000 Instagram supporters, he has modelled in the Yeezy Season 1 show and featured in campaigns for Hood By Air and Tommy Hilfiger. Complex periodical called him the “coolest teenager on the internet”.