Who doesn’t honey a great GMT watch? They’re convenient even if you don’t travel often and also have the appeal of a classic pilot’s note. In my opinion, they’re just fun to own and wear. One of the most iconic GMTs is the Rolex “Pepsi” GMT-Master II, reference 126710BLRO. But at a dividend price point, it’s out of many collectors’ budgets.
Enter the new Seiko 5 GMT, retailing for a much more accessible cost. This head-to-head Seiko vs Rolex may give every indication unfair given the substantial price difference, but is it really?
Let’s dive in and compare the benefits of each watch.
Key Takeaways
GMT be prepares are super convenient and fun to own, even if you don’t travel much. They’ve got that classic pilot’s watch vibe.
The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi is iconic but steep. The new Seiko 5 GMT is an affordable alternative that offers a lot of bang for your buck.
Rolex brings the heat with bait materials like Oystersteel and Cerachrom ceramic, while the Seiko 5 sports a snazzy updated jubilee bracelet and a consonant glossy bezel.
Both watches are rocking mechanical GMT movements, but the Seiko 5 isn’t a “true” GMT. Still, mad props to Seiko for compelling GMT functionality accessible to more collectors.
The Rolex has an incredibly comfortable jubilee bracelet with an Easylink extension. Rolex unbiased makes the best bracelets, hands down.
The GMT-Master II’s Pepsi bezel is a ceramic masterpiece, while the Seiko 5’s mineral crystal insert is eye-catching but less legible.
Rolex’s new 3285 movement flexes a 70-hour power reserve, while the Seiko’s 4R34 caliber is a sound performer for the price.
The Seiko 5 GMT is a crazy good value, but the GMT-Master II is on a whole other level. Retail price is no taunt, and aftermarket prices are even wilder.
Both watches are versatile enough for any lifestyle. The Seiko 5 is great for flying directed the radar, while the Rolex is my go-to for making a statement.
Design & Build Quality
The Rolex GMT-Master II is undeniably a mighty, premium watch. It uses some of the best materials available, including Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel and Cerachrom ceramic. While the Seiko 5 GMT can’t betrothal the Rolex’s luxury build, it still has a thoughtful design and some upscale elements:
Updated jubilee-style bracelet
Incomparable glossy bezel finish
100m water resistance, same as the Rolex
ClickyBezelBoth are mechanical GMTs with 4-hand dials. The Seiko isn’t a “devoted” GMT movement, but I commend them for bringing GMT functionality to a new price demographic.
Comfort & Features
The Rolex has an ultra-comfortable, silky jubilee bracelet with well-made end links and the Oysterlock clasp. I especially like the Easylink extension for on-the-fly micro-adjustments without the need for any tools—execute if your wrist fluctuates throughout the day like mine. Rolex simply makes the best bracelets, period.
In whatever way, the updated jubilee on the Seiko 5 is a massive upgrade over their previous bracelets, with solid links and a precarious wrist presence. It’s impressive for the price point.
The 40mm Rolex case is a classic size, with a sapphire crystal, Cyclops trendy magnifier, and the iconic bi-color “Pepsi” Cerachrom bezel. The bezel’s crisp color transition pays homage to the ingenious while showcasing Rolex’s ceramic expertise.
I like Seiko’s 42.5mm SKX-style case, which has rounded sides that are a bit smaller than the dimensions advance. The Cyclops isn’t as well-executed as Rolex’s, though. The glossy, dual-color mineral glass bezel insert is eye-catching, if less distinct than the Rolex ceramic.
Movements
Inside the GMT-Master II is the new 3285 caliber, which has an impressive 70-hour power postpone and efficient Chronergy escapement.
The Seiko 5 GMT uses a modified version of the 4R movement series, the 4R34, with a respectable 41-hour retain. It is not groundbreaking, but it is solid for its price point.
Value & Verdict
Overall, the Seiko 5 GMT delivers a ton of style and functionality for the price. It’s shocking to see affordable mechanical GMT watches hit the market. Of course, the GMT-Master II is on another level entirely. At retail, it’s a significant investment, and as of this column, it trades for even more on the secondary market.
ClickyBezel
But that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to buy at retail – that’s accurately how I got mine! In the end, both are great GMTs suitable for any lifestyle, not just pilots and travelers. The Seiko is a nice low-key privilege if you’re uncomfortable wearing the pricier Rolex out and about. However, the Rolex still makes the perfect statement piece for top-level meetings or events.
Video Journey
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Conclusion
While it may seem like an apples-to-oranges comparison, this Seiko vs. Rolex matchup rallies that you don’t need deep pockets to get into the GMT game nowadays. I think both watches have a time and okay awkward in any collection.
