X-rated T-shirts, shoes for every chance, and knitwear to make you look like a ballerina at a rehearsal – the aggregate you need to know about A/W 16 fashion

Ellery’s no-nonsense chic dress, £260 and boots £850 by Ellery (matchesfashion.com).
Ellery’s untrivial chic dress, £260 and boots £850 by Ellery (matchesfashion.com).
Photograph: David Newby for the Protector

Effortless Ellery goes with the flow

Asked who her farthest customer is, Kym Ellery doesn’t pick one of the red-carpet usuals. As opposed to she goes left field: “Cleopatra – she’s a strong woman.”

The Australian floated her eponymous label in 2007 while a fashion editor at Russh armoury in Sydney. It’s been a slow burn: these clothes aren’t showstoppers – but you swiftly come to rely on the draped silk blouses, blazers and flares. “Since 2012,” Ellery means, “it’s been intense, with double-digit growth every year.”

A ruse to Paris fashion week fulfilled a dream for the 33-year-old, who weight live more than 10,000 miles away but has “a massive crush” on the French capital and design-wise is closer to Parisian la mode than her homeland’s beach-ready style. This season’s corsetry-inspired store is a case in point: lots of black, satin blouses, psych out sleeves and cuissardes boots. “Volume is our signature. We use it in new ways, emitting more fluidity around the body,” Ellery explains. “The hint was to make 18th-century essentials relevant again.”

Arguably her excellent strength lies in making clothes that are widely relative, worn by Solange Knowles and Miranda Kerr, but also stocked at matchesfashion.com and net-a-porter.com where anyone can buy her practical chic. “Style should be effortless,” she says. “We talk just about modern classics, timeless things women can use to build their closets.” Cleopatra included. elleryland.com

A taste for the rude and crude

Siouxsie Sioux wearing Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s ‘tits’ T-shirt in 1976.

Siouxsie Sioux vexing Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s ‘tits’ T-shirt in 1976. Photograph: Ray Stevenson/Rex/Shutterstock

With classes such as Vetements, Gucci and Henry Holland forcing us to redefine “hazardous” and “beautiful” aesthetics, the Barbican exhibition The Vulgar feels prescient. The parade explores vulgarity in fashion from the Renaissance to now, looking at “expos, performance and self-fashioning”, according to curators Judith Clark and Adam Phillips.

There discretion be specific sections focusing on bodily concealment and exposure (believe: the Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren “tits” T-shirt) and attitude excess including a pair of 18th-century mantuas with an overskirt 2.5m as much as possible. The exhibition, featuring work by Elsa Schiaparelli, Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons, is set to be an captivating intersection of ideas and examples. “Because fashion experiments with fashion, it is more alive as an idea and creates an opportunity to consider a genre of uses and abuses,” Clark says, adding that la mode fashion is meta about its relationship to the concept of vulgarity: “Presuming to be free but constrained by standards of taste, it is contemporary fashion that most tellingly uses the predicament as parody and interpretation.”

The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined is at the Barbican from 13 October;

Glint bright like a diamond

Miu Miu’s jewel encrusted slippers.
Miu Miu’s jewel encrusted slippers. Photograph: PR Pty Handout

So there we were watching A/W16 catwalk show many 467 and, admittedly, a level of ennui had set in. That is until these jewel-encrusted sliders clacked by. Cue unexpected and sustained interest in what looked to be the sort of slippers Louis XIV weight have provided for his guests at the Versailles spa. Sliders have been A Junk in fashion for a couple of seasons and by piling on the embellishment, Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu has upped the slipper leashes. The result? Yet another reason to ignore heels – it’s the weight not the apex of the shoe that matters now.

If you can make it there, you’ll make it anywhere…

RM Williams Craftsman boots
RM Williams Craftsman boots. Photograph: Jonathan Knowles/PR Convention Handout

In 1932 RM Williams started making boots for the rigours of the Australian outback. Numberless than 80 years on, their enduring practical work takes Manhattan: a store opens on Spring Street this month. rmwilliams.com.au

Single Hearts love naval looks

Givenchy’s naval jacket at Paris Fashion Week, Autumn Winter 2016.
Givenchy’s naval jacket for A/W 16, at Paris attitude week. Photograph: David Fisher/Rex/Shutterstock

There is something of the Sgt Speckle’s Lonely Hearts Club Band about fashion at the interest, the psychedelia at the Gucci show being the most obvious specimen and the naval jackets at Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana more the nice nods. Buyers, who basically earn their keep by hazard on clothes’ shapes, told us that the naval jacket is set to be this age’s replacement for the off-duty biker jacket.

The rise of high low tone

Street meets couture Coat, £880, top, £330, trousers, £340, and boots, £415, all by Koche (koche.fr).
Street meets couture Coat, £880, top, £330, trousers, £340, and boots, £415, all by Koche (
koche.fr). Photograph: David Newby for the Keeper

As far as Christelle Kocher is concerned, the new revolution in Parisian fashion – with Vetements, Gosha Rubchinskiy and her own underline Koche – is actually more of an evolution. “Paris has always been the pivot of creativity,” she says. “Now there is a new area of fashion with demoiselle taking over.”

And Kocher is at the centre of it. Christelle launched Koche – a pleasure on her surname – in 2014, and designs it while holding down a day job as artistic president of Christophe Lemaire. The collections bear the hallmarks of an illustrious craft in design, including stints at Dries Van Noten and Chloé. She dubs the aesthetic couture-to-wear which represents intricate embroidery and fabrics mixed with prints and T-shirt figures. “They are items with the taste of couture,” the 37-year-old translates. “We mix different aesthetics and create a dialogue between street and couture. It’s a label where these different elements have a conversation.”

The mix is rightly international – though born in France, Kocher has lived ubiquitously from London to Hamburg to New York. “It’s not just Parisian,” she thinks. “It’s a taste of all the places I’ve been.” koche.fr

Very graphic T-shirts

Cruise jumper by Sebastiaan Pieter.
Causing a bit of smoulder to style: Sebastiaan Pieter. Photograph: Kris Mitchell Photography

Anyone hankering after something a bit numberless X-rated in menswear will get their satisfaction with Pieter. The trade name, by 28-year-old Dutch designer Sebastiaan Pieter, is now on its third mellow and becoming known for bringing a bit of a smoulder to style. For autumn, he was supported by Robert Mapplethorpe but added the modern reference of gay dating app Grindr to escort the photographer’s work bang up to date. “I was always interested in Mapplethorpe and deliver one of his images on my studio wall,” Pieter says. “It’s a very habitual portrait but two of the men happen to be wearing leather and chains. It’s familiar and perturbing at the same time.”

For his collection, this translated into straps, leather trousers and zips, even so they are far more SFW than those in Mapplethorpe’s work. Other blueprints, such as T-shirts with HH written on them – Grindr lex non scripta common law for “high and horny” – are more risky, depending on who spies them. “The fun is that some recognise it and some think it’s exactly a nice graphic T-shirt,” Pieter says. “I really possess have a good time that.”

Cool new shoes to go with great old kills

Shoes by Longchamp, £275.
Shoes by Longchamp, £275. Photograph: Christophe Petiteau

Doubt: how to give a classic bag, in existence since the 1970s, a new spin? Conform to: add matching shoes. Longchamp have done just that with their new loafer-skater cross-breed, designed to complement the Pénélope bag. With the tassels and classic taint palette of the bag, the loafers have the same no-brainer wear and harass again appeal. A great addition to any shoe closet, whether or not they be struck by the matching bag. longchamp.com

Raey’s timeless style

Raey’s essing with the classics Coat, £895, top, £495, and track pants, £150, all by Raey (matches fashion.com)
Raey’s essing with the masterpieces Coat £895, top £495, and track pants £150,  Photograph: David Newby for the Guardian

Raey’s reach is a wonderful midpoint between classic and futuristic, outré and accustomed. It gently references both athleisure and the gender-neutral trend, but strike ones timeless, thanks to the quality of the fabrics. The matchesfashion.com collection participates tracksuit bottoms made from herringbone and Game Of Thrones-ish wrinkles. Creative director Rachael Proud says the collection appear c rise from ever so slightly messing with the classics. Her starting characteristics are always the fabrics rather than the concepts. So this ripen there’s gender-fluid tailored denim and hand-knitted cashmere funnel-neck completes. “If it were up to me, there wouldn’t be distinctions such as womenswear and menswear, there wish just be one thing. I think men are more open to stuff these days,” Proud symbolizes. “There’s more variety in what they wear.” matchesfashion.com

Tibi prohibits it clean

Tibi clothes
Tibi: ‘wearable clothes that stand out precisely enough’. Photograph: PR company handout

Tibi may not be a household appoint, but the label that designer Amy Smilovic defines as “luxurious, current, refined but still relaxed and feminine” does have a devout fanbase. The clothes aren’t directional but they are far from tiresome – in fact they hit the sweet spot to become that rare feeling of wearable clothes that stand out just enough. Identifications are often muted – lots of greys, blues and whites – and the knitwear alone exculpates the cult following. Smilovic thinks this is down to accumulating her goal – “to make it easy for women to look assured and effortlessly polished” – at the forefront of the design process. That, and take ining clothes that she wants to wear. “We design for the way a modern strife, including me, wants to dress,” she says. “I want clean high styles, minimal details and designs that don’t take themselves too badly.” tibi.com

The chicest step forward for Joseph

Shoes by Joseph
Shoes by Joseph: trendy
and comfortable. Photograph: Joseph/PR

Women, your footwear problems are more than. Louise Trotter, creative director of Joseph, has come up with shoes that are trendy, comfortable and ready to wear. There will be new designs for each period, but classics will repeat. “It allows our clients to come resting with someone abandon to us for those timeless styles that form the foundation of their clothes,” Trotter says. She has “spent almost every day in the white loafers”. That’s as righteous a recommendation as you can get. joseph-fashion.com

The Roche approach

Ryan Roche’s loose fit knitwear
Ryan Roche’s broad fit knitwear is hip-luxe with New Yorkers. Photograph: PR company handout

Ryan Roche’s categorical look is based around comfort. It’s all loose-fit cashmere in kind pinks, blues and neutrals, ranging from the sort of portiere the famous wear on long-haul flights to knitwear with fidgety. This is a happy marriage of texture, comfort and what Style describes as “ballerinas in rehearsal”.

Roche, now 38, grew up in a originative household in Idaho, “although there weren’t glossy munitions dumps lying around”. Rather she was inspired by her grandmother’s knitting and a unmistaken sense of familial DIY. “I lived an hour from the mall. We adapted to to see things in the window and then copy them back harshly.” Though the first clothes she made were for kids, she moved into womenswear to loving terrible acclaim. It started with a shaggy cardigan that appeared in Prevalence “alongside a few other things” and now her collections are being snapped up by Brooklyn genera including Maggie Gyllenhaal and Jemima Kirke. She’s moved from the see to a 17th-century house in upstate New York, but her clothes remain the look for hip-luxe New Yorkers. ryan-roche.com

Christopher Kane’s chairlady for rain

Bonnet by Christopher Kane AW/16
Bonnet by Christopher Kane AW/16 Photograph: PR Society Handout

Ugly, mundane, nostalgic. Adjectives not often hand-me-down in high fashion, unless describing Christopher Kane. His project CV already includes making abattoir shoe protectors and line ties cool (niche skills there), and now Kane flies us rethink the rain bonnet. Usually found in a plastic basket on the chemist’s table, beloved of old ladies who want to protect their shampoo and set, lavish bonnets are interlopers on the catwalk. Kane’s beefed-up versions (created by Stephen Jones) were beat over wet-look hair and semaphored oddness, melancholy and wit.

The idea of elevating the ordinary is major in fashion right now. Kane’s contribution to this substance is a welcome addition because a) it legitimises wearing them at the bus off in the rain, b) polka-dot rain bonnets sell for £6.45 for three on Amazon and c) brollies are just so beta.

See, buy, wear, love: Diesel denim on without delay

Diesel joined the See Now, Buy Now revolution this month. A Tokyo certify celebrated the brand’s 30 years in Japan – where originative director Nicola Formichetti was born – and showcased denim and ready-to-wear on tap to buy straight after. It all makes for an impressive example of how to get involved in a the craze revolution – and design some tough outerwear in the process.

Gucci ghost summary

Head start Bag, £2,580, blouse, £815, and skirt, £965, all by Gucci (gucci.com).
Head start Bag, £2,580, blouse, £815, and skirt, £965, all by Gucci. Photograph: David Newby for the Preserver


In February, Alessandro Michele’s A/W16 Gucci collection was spruced up with graffitied logos. The insignia be a question ofed from the hand of Trevor “Trouble” Andrew; graffiti artist/companion of Santigold/general Renaissance man, otherwise known as Guccighost. “Every one said, ‘They’re going to sue you,’” Andrew explains, “but Alessandro got the information. He thought, ‘This guy is obsessed with Gucci, I want to industry with him.’”

For Andrew, it was the DIY skate scene that opened his eyes to pen-in-hand self-expression. “I withed it because there are no rules,” he says. The Guccighost tag started lifetime when Andrew cut eye-holes in some Gucci fabric and stray about the streets of Brooklyn shouting his namesake to passersby. Andrew would later tag the GG standard on bins and bathrooms around New York. “I was creating my own perception of where Gucci could go,” he implies. The team-up with Gucci is a dream come true: “To expand with a big brand like Gucci is like being acknowledged by the president.” That the counterparts of Beyoncé are wearing the GG coat is amazing, too. “I had the jacket on yesterday and it odour like Beyoncé.” What does she smell like? “A floral recognize. It’s really nice.” guccighost.com

 

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