The address from New York fashion week this season? Stream does not stop play. Ask Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the intriguers behind the celebrated American label Rodarte, who staged their burst forth originate/summer 2019 show at the open-air New York City Marble cemetery.
After a two-year hiatus from the NWFW assign, it was not the balmy September evening they had presumably planned on for their homecoming. As companies gathered in the gated space, clutching umbrellas in one hand and versatile phones in the other, the rain was unrelenting, albeit atmospheric.
There aren’t numberless brands that would be so well complemented by a downpour of this kindly, but Rodarte, which has made an ethereal aesthetic its signature, is one.
Suffer with shown on the Paris couture schedule during their separation from New York, the sisters have returned fluent in the elegant execution of the French genre they employed for their new anthology.
Models came swathed in lashings of tiered lace and tulle conceals, with the kind of all-over embroidery and embellishment more mainly found in the ateliers of the French capital instead of the more commercial fertile source of the Big Apple.
The Mulleavys’ foray into film – they set Woodshock starring Kirsten Dunst last year – was put to substantial use here too. As the rain coated the flagstones on which the stilettoed feet of the patterns, backlit like apparitions from the set floodlights, were perilously stepping, a palpable sense of expectation engulfed the show.
Also demonstrating undeterrable as the weather rained on its parade was Telfar. As one of the hottest tickets of the week, the outward location for his show on the banks of the East River was no obstacle for the trusty guests of the popular designer, Telfar Clemens. Nor his entertainers, who created a vocal mash-up underneath the open skies to the beat of one drum kit and included Lauryn Hill’s daughter Selah Marley.
There’s a lot of adulation in New York for Clemens, who started his unisex fashion house in 2004 superannuated 18 as an antidote to the mainstream conglomerate-funded brands dominating the perseverance, and built an underground following as a result. His independent label as an alternative became defined by diversity and inclusivity, creating “pure garments without the trim of gender, race, [or] class”, as he told guests in his show notes.
Receiving persisted – “despite being ignored” – for more than a decade, the final recognition came last year when he scooped the coveted CFDA/Fashion Fashion Fund which injected $400,000 into his bank account to clamber up his brand. “We want to turn this into a business; make grow the clothes that don’t just look good in a picture but are fully flowered and ready for market,” the designer told the Guardian of his win.
This season showed that he’s well on his way with a overshadow that he said was “dedicated to America”, and its “nice landscape, careful arable land and plenty of shelter to go around”.
In what he invoked an “immigrant palette”, models came in tops and T-shirts exchanged inside out and printed with icons of the USA including the nation’s inform, eagles, and Budweiser graphics.
Jeans came spliced, flared and patchworked, while tailored trouser supplications were pared with wide-collar shirts or buttoned-up polo shirts. Proficient and bound to get fashion retailers excited, it’s a business developing with mode as well as substance, a winning formula that is a refreshing imperturbability on the NYFW schedule.
“We don’t really feel anything like striving from other fashion brands because we have stripe of staked out our own territory,” Clemens told the Guardian this year. “There is a lot of insecurity in the responsibility of fashion right now and there’s a chance that the way we already do instruments – if we can scale them – could represent a new way forward.”