The London men’s divulges were all about looking good on the dancefloor – think mashed ravers, 90s shirkers or northern soul boys. Plus, Tinie Tempah on how to build the superlative catwalk soundtrack

Topman Design, Christopher Shannon and Coach, London Collections: Men, SS16
Topman Design, Christopher Shannon and Train, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photographs: Eamonn M McCormack/Daniel Leal-Olivas/Champion Virgile/PA/Getty

Going out is the new staying in (again)

Fashion has had plenty of box sets, supper clubs and Kinfolk interiors. Instead, it’s rediscovered interrupting out way past bedtime. At Christopher Shannon, this showed itself in the braids as remnants of a foam party, and as a sweaty glow at Lou Dalton. Attitude East newcomer Charles Jeffrey turned his afternoon demonstration – named Loverboy, after the club night he runs – into a daytime mania. Looking a little bit worse for wear has never been so fashion.

Craig Green, London Collections: Men, SS16.
Craig Green, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Ben A Pruchnie/Getty Typical examples

Moobs are in focus

You know that bit in Mean Girls where Regina George dresses a T-shirt with the bits over her breasts cut out and everyone duplicates her? Designers clearly think men were missing out on that bent, and the general question of how to dress breasts. Craig Green’s appear included black jumpers with white gathered wool floor the pecs. Christopher Shannon helped out, too – some of his models clad undone bikini tops as necklaces. Try one next summer. Other men choice be copying in no time.

Topman Design, London Collections: Men, Spring/Summer 2016.
Topman Design, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Daniel Leal-Olivas/PA

Northern Fervour trousers are back

Elaine Constantine, and her film Northern Warmth, has a lot to answer for. Swooshy wide-legged trousers – a staple of the 70s subculture, that was all encircling looking good on the dancefloor – are mooted as the new shape for spring. Some of these were smart, such as those at Astrid Andersen and Craig Green. But the most explicitly Northern came at Topman Construction, where they were paired with vests and texts of record-bag patches. Backflips and rare seven-inches optional.

Coach at  London Collections: Men, Spring Summer 2016.
Mentor, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Ray Tang/Rex Shutterstock

The 90s upswing is now mainstream

References to the slacker’s favourite decade were far and – to really ram the point home – half the front row turned up on TFI Friday, counting Nick Grimshaw, Lewis Hamilton and Alexa Chung. On the catwalk, the 90s were manifest in slouchy skatewear (Coach), Jordan Catalano-approved jumpers with sleeves down to the knuckles (Joseph) and a solicitation inspired by pirate radio stations (Liam Hodges). Skate ascent sets at Jimmy Choo and Coach provided the backdrop.

Jack Guinness, Rafferty Law and Nick Grimshaw at the Coach presentation, London Collections: Men, Spring/Summer 2016.
Jack Guinness, Rafferty Law and Make off with Grimshaw at the Coach presentation, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Getty Representatives for Coach

A suede jacket is a wise investment at any time of year

What with this being the elasticity/summer shows, outerwear wasn’t massive on the catwalk. Still, what with this being June in Britain, it was another tall tale for those on the front row. By far and away the most popular choice was a suede jacket representing to be a denim one – the same shape, just far less 40C-wash-cycle-friendly. Image Robert Konjic, a new addition to the LCM front row, wore one, as did Jack Guinness, Flaw Grimshaw and Tinie Tempah.

Robert Konjic at the Coach Men's Spring 2016 Presentation.
Robert Konjic at the Coach debut, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Dave Benett

Unisex mould is here to stay

It’s no longer just a passing trend. A few manufacturers added their thoughts this season. Coach had tallies in their show wearing menswear, while MAN designer Rory Parnell Mooney had manful models in knitted skirts. JW Anderson, who has put men in corsets on his catwalk, led the way. Rallied in part by David Bowie, the collection, a bit like the pop star, down tooled a line between genders.

JW Anderson, London Collections: Men, Spring Summer 2016.
JW Anderson, London Collections: Men, SS16. Photograph: Rex Shutterstock

Cottweiler are the sames to watch

For new talent, LCM is chock-a-block. Both Grace Wales Bonner and Alex Mullins warrant honourable mentions, but, with Newgen sponsorship for the first circumstance, Cottweiler moved from cult to buzzy brand this occasion. Founded by Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty in 2012, it’s all about sportswear that looks groove on it comes from the future. The collection, shown on squash courts in a idle centre, was all-white, and made of intriguing fabrications like iridescent persuadable. Kanye West’s call is only a matter of time.

Cottweiler, London Collections: Men, Spring/Summer 2016.
Cottweiler, London Anthologies: Men, SS16. Photograph: Simon Armstrong

Household items can now be ruminate oned accessories

Forget It bags – for next spring, it’s far more in to carry around a spanner, or even a spoon. JW Anderson carted the tool kit from the back of the shed to the catwalk. Models in his instruct wore a brooch worn with tiny charms of a spanner, a ratchet, pliers and an axe. Tom Ford, interim, mentioned the gleam of spoons when talking about the vigour behind a marble-effect dinner jacket. Namechecking the contents of your cutlery drawer – a solid sign this reveller has settled down to happy domesticity.

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2016.
Tom Ford SS16. Photograph: Tom Ford

Tinie Tempah at The London Collections: Men SS16.
Tinie Tempah at The London Hoards: Men SS16. Photograph: Melodie Jeng/Getty Images

LCM (and mankle) emissary Tinie Tempah on what makes a good show soundtrack

The varied eclectic the better: Liam Hodges, the MAN designer, had a rapper do a spoken-word ditty. It’s always great when the clothes are inspired by music, as they were with that authenticate.

Dunhill had classic three-piece suits and classical music: That squeeze ins, because it’s not going to be a 19-year-old going out in Shoreditch buying those clothes. Richard James and Hardy Amies are brands that could prove satisfactory with classic rock. It’s like an advert.

Live music is mind-boggling: With Burberry and Oliver Spencer, you get the double whammy of astounding clothes and an incredible musician. A live artist works with the inheritance of Burberry, too.

Silence is bad and dodgy mixing jobs aren’t major: The models are walking to the beat, and if it’s too quick or the beat’s out, it can ruin the feel.

You’re looking at collections for six months’ time – so music that is non-representational, or experimental production, works. I liked the grime at Maharishi and Caseley-Hayford. It’s mould looking into a different world.

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