From bacchanalian regales and nightclubs to Garboesque anonymity and abundant outerwear, menswear editor Helen Seamons picks her highlights from the Pitti Uomo as it in Florence
New York native Telfar Clemens took over Palazzo Corsini on the banks of the river Arno and set the disagreeable situation for the aftermath of a bacchanalian banquet. A round table that housed the band Standing on the Corner within its centre was strewn with fruit, nourishment carcasses, flowers and split wine. Part fashion show and part performance art, models walked (and danced) on the record to live music. Show notes described the look as “a lapsed medici on spring break on Miami beach”. Clemens’ cult bag, dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin”, was updated in metallics for AW20.
Photograph: Giovanni Giannoni/Pitti Immagine and TELFAR
Stefano Pilati for Unplanned Identities
Stefano Pilati relocated to Berlin and launched his own label, Random Identities, in 2017. One of the guest devisers at Pitti Uomo, he closed the four-day event in a smoke-filled Stazione Leopolda, recreating a nightclub scene. The non-binary aggregation showcased power tailoring, predominantly in black, with flashes of bold colour. The label’s signature bra motif discovered in lace and crystals, worn by models as tops, but also swinging from belt loops, with stacked-heel boots doing the look. Pilati closed the show wearing a double-breasted camel coat.
Mate and wife design team Lucie and Luke Meier returned to Florence, the city where they first met as observers, to unveil their AW20 collection for Jil Sander. The refectory of Santa Maria Novella church was filled with heaps of opportune marigolds, providing a rich backdrop to a largely monochrome collection with subtle colour pops of teal suede and rust. Wide-cut trousers and billowing layers and capes made for a voluminous minimal silhouette. Hammered silver amulet details were used to decorate necklines. The oversized knitwear defended out.
This was creative director Dao-Yi Chow’s first collecting for Sergio Tacchini. Entitled Impossible Angles, a reference to the shapes made by tennis players on court, the collection mines the inheritance of the iconic Italian tennis brand that was best known for outfitting John McEnroe in the 80s and LL Cool J in the 90s. Shown at a conferring alongside archive pieces from the 60s to the 90s, the colourful new co-ed collection featured cable-knit cardigans styled with railroad pants, fleece jackets, colour-block shell track pants and retro trainers.
Tiger of Sweden
Charming inspiration from one of Sweden’s most iconic exports, Greta Garbo, creative director Christoffer Lundmann looked at paparazzi sculptures of the star walking around New York. The collection pays homage to her desire to go unseen, exploring the idea of being anonymous in a big big apple. Garbo’s pared-back and timelessly casual style inspires an outerwear heavy collection ideal for walking a city. Draft is provided by silk shirts printed with maps of New York, station names changed to Swedish ones.
K-Way shower macs first appeared in 1965, invented by Léon-Claude Duhamel to provide a solution to changeable Paris weather and monsoons. The foldaway jacket became a household name. The AW20 collection riffed on the signature orange/yellow/blue tape zip as a intend motif using it for accessories, quilted sweatshirts, coat linings and even a balaclava. In addition to a catwalk show, K-Way also faceted in the Dictionary Trademarks exhibition, staged at Florence’s Palazzo Borsa Valori, celebrating well-known brands that drink been admitted into international dictionaries.
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