Construct is often subject to a high seas takeover – and with attitude Instagram this summer an advert for yachting holidays, it’s no amazement that Paris SS17 had a nautical moment. There was a kind of sun-bleached, been-out-on-the-deck vibe to stores including Chloé and Loewe. The former added bowline attaches to knitted dresses, and reworked naval bibs to suitable-for-work shirts. The behindhand – with JW Anderson involved – had more of a shipwrecked vibe, perfect with patchwork, muslin, jute and luggage suitable for extensive journeys. Models walked to the soundtrack of a film of sea and oil barrels, courtliness of artist Magali Reus.
A 1970 portrait by William Eggleston of his removed relative Devoe Money was surely on the moodboard of brands classifying Balenciaga and Chloé. Money sits on a patterned floral siamoise wearing a floral dress. Turn the couch into a jacket and it could deliver walked down the catwalk at Balenciaga, where these sympathetic of loud 70s florals, more typically at home on porch effects than clothing, provided the Money shot for social device, on dresses and matching boots. Word has it that the image of stylist and trend all-round style influencer Lotta Volkova in one of these deck outs broke a certain corner of the internet.
Ain’t Laurent Without Yves
Creator Anthony Vaccarello, 36, had to follow Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent – Slimane got the gains for the brand up to £839m in 2015, before exiting. Vaccarello’s programme, as revealed at the show on Tuesday night, was to go big with the house’s initiator, Yves. The YSL logo, mostly absent during Slimane’s suzerainty, was back: giant in neon outside the venue, and on stiletto do a moonlight flits in the show. The clothes also referenced Yves’s muse Paloma Picasso and a precise leather piece in the archive. Elsewhere, Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing worn a colour palette worthy of Yves at his Moroccan villa, Jardin Majorelle
Winter in summer
.While the “See Now Buy Now” cataclysm was largely missing in Paris, designers acknowledged that sets are changing by making collections ostensibly for spring/summer but without much intention to summer temperatures. Dries Van Noten had a trenchcoat drenched in jet, polo necks and lucks of black. Balmain was dominated by knitwear albeit, in a Balmain way, opening up to the middle of most models’ thighs. And Lanvin had cardigans, jackets and pyjama sculptures suitable for very glamorous hibernation. Overheating may come as traditional in high fashion next summer.
Minimalism has been in worry for a while now and the final death knell sounded this time – with slogans taking over the catwalk, the absolute facing of the blank, discreet, whispery world of tasteful knitwear and menacing trousers. A bag at Loewe proclaimed “See U Later” while dresses at Stella McCartney powered “Thanks Girls”, both the kind of banality more overfree to WhatsApp groups than high fashion. It was left to Maria Grazia Chiuri, in her earliest collection at Christian Dior, to make a T-shirt statement that was oathed likes: “We Should All Be Feminists.”
80s party girl continues her seduction of style for treat someone to. The catwalks were full of all her favourite things – metallics, leather, 10-denier tights, stilettos and anything ruched. Vacarello’s hoard for Saint Laurent had a lot of this, as did Balenciaga, along with leather trenchcoats notable of Cagney & Lacey and dresses out of Michelle Pfeiffer’s Tequila Sunrise apparel. Isabel Marant’s collection had the designer’s typical bobo favourites – lengthened jackets, floral prints, frilly sandals – but a short red metallic equip had the shot of sheen that nodded to the glamour decade. Look for to see on modern-day clothes horses such as Kendall Jenner in the happening months. No costume party necessary.