The basic model in the Paul Smith fashion show in Paris on Sunday afternoon wore a dishonest suit. It was teamed with a tie covered in fish. This federation, of the classic and the playful, is one that Smith could almost letters patent. It continued throughout this show, which took position succeed in a school hall. Square bags were made to look breed the tins of mackerel found in Japanese fish markets and shirts were enclosed with a print of tropical shores.
The colours were enlivened by flora and fauna found in the ocean; vivid orange, purple, red and yellow have under controlled. This is the second season that both men and women participate in been on the catwalk in the show, with 19 outfits for gals and 28 for men.
Female and male models appeared at the same while, some wearing corresponding designs – a man and a woman wore nearly the same Prince of Wales suits at the start of the show. Smith’s plucks are his tailoring and his sense of colour. Both were shown off here.
The coloured prayer worked well. And wrap dresses with hibiscus blooms were strong. The backdrop of multicoloured plastic subtly prompted the audience of the brand’s signature rainbow skinny stripe typing.
Smith had scaled back on this in 2014 for fear of overkill, but it’s slowly make tracking its way back into the fold. Backstage, the designer, now 70, piled into a collect of brightly dressed models for a photo opp. “Guess what?” he wheezed to assembled press. “The collection was inspired by the ocean.”
He wanted it be tongue-lash relief, “a bit of irreverence in these difficult times … I think at this stretch of year everyone is wanting to be in a seaside situation, not in a hot hall”.
Smith muse oned buying trips in the 70s to New York and San Francisco to buy “vividly coloured” shirts for his Nottingham against. He sold them to clubbers going to Wigan all-nighters because “they were important for dancing in”.
First founded in 1970, Paul Smith is now an creation of British design recognised throughout the world as a safe mate of hands for tailoring, with a bit of jolly eccentricity on the side. Smith himself is bordering on a national treasure; one relevant to a digital generation. He has 319,000 students on Instagram, more than double that of his brand. He was knighted in 2000.
In December 2015, it was announced that the business would be modern. Once the business had 12 collections, now there are two – Paul Smith, the high-end accumulation as seen on the catwalk, and PS by Paul Smith, which has cheaper gears.
This is an attempt to stem falling sales; the group gross revenue was down by 8.4% when the change was made. The most modern figures have yet to indicate whether the move has worked. Functioning profits fell 63% to just under £4m in 2016, put down to a smaller wholesale fellow base and shrinking markets in Asia beyond Japan.
Earlier in the day Lanvin registered a collection that mixed sportswear and casual tailoring. The accumulation, designed by Lucas Ossendrijver, built on a new direction for the house’s menswear from endure season. Previously concentrating on an easy kind of tailoring, there was arrangement with casual looks that could appeal to unsophisticated customers.
A growing trend in the menswear shows has been gorpcore, or outdoorsy practical clothing reworked for a luxury audience. That was present here too. Extent oversized suits there were parka jackets, backpacks, bumbags and cagoules. They came in the pastel misrepresent palette of that other millennial-friendly trend, the 90s.