From Teacher’s Easy Rider scrapyard to Alexander Wang’s Adidas collaboration and Victoriana florals at 3.1 Phillip Lim, frame editor Jo Jones picks her top 10 highlights from New York mode week spring/summer 2017
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1. Coach 1941
Stacks of junkyard buggies created the backdrop which echoed the new tougher and grittier Coach popsy. Creative director Stuart Vevers explained backstage that he longing to give the Coach girl gang an attitude. References from
Easy as pie Rider mixed with images of Priscilla and Elvis Presley, that spotlighted on T-shirts and sweatshirts. Key for this season were the biker jackets screened in studs and hardware, with a customised feel. By the look of his new aplomb customers in the audience, including campaign face Chloe Decorum Moretz, Vevers is succeeding at selling America back to the Americans.
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2. Victoria Beckham
Wish gone are the structural bodycon dresses. Victoria Beckham has develop her stride and it’s relaxed with a breezy step. Silk pleated camouflages floated down the catwalk, interspersed with pops of falsify in crushed silk velvet, delicate floral prints exhausted off with matching unstructured bags draped across the centre. Bralets were layered under relaxed suiting and their tie up cousins popped out as a band of colour on an open-back dress and as a peek-a-boo bra strap beneath knitted dresses.
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3. Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s feeble-minded white show space came alive with pigment for their Proenza Schouler show. As always the craftsmanship and construction of each slice was exquisite: asymmetrical skirts and dresses with a 3D form bounced their way along the runway with an might that lifted the audience.
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4. 3.1 Phillip Lim
Lim’s show, entiled “Midnight at the Victorian Rodeo”, come together the Victorian era with the 50s. The models moved at a languid pace to the soundtrack of Patsy Cline. The runway was a rumour square scattered with flowers, which reflected the first place exits of delicate floral detailing on dresses, and the Victorian eager was echoed in ruffle edges and high necks. Tougher looks had zip cadres or a black leather bra worn with shorts, and noteworthy were the zip-front jumpsuits the worse for wear with a bralette (trend alert!) or an off-the-shoulder zip-edged top.
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5. Alexander Wang
With Madonna on the Frow assume damage Alexander Wang’s new collaboration with Adidas Originals, Wang had a frigid headstart to what came down the runway. Taking provocation from surf culture, it opened with boxer shorts and a cropped spotless shirt, dresses with neon seams, and a wrap skirt with a bikini top. Colourful augmentations were a cropped fluorescent-pink sweatshirt with a palm tree run off and lingerie-like slips in neon tracksuit fabric. The surf subject-matter continued with flat sandals that had straps reminiscent of surfboard ankle leashes, and necklaces take to lifeguard whistles.
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6. DVF
Jonathan Saunders’ new role as chief original officer at Diane Von Furstenberg (after closing his own label final year) proved to be the perfect match. Saunders’ signature fashion of clashing colour and prints gave the label a contemporary update. Key articles were the bias-cut asymmetric dresses merging prints, harsh wide-leg trousers with fold-over waistbands and striped grosgrain ribbon charging, and some very desirable skinny-rib knits.
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7. DKNY
Streetwise disposition and activewear featured prominently through creative directors Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow’s boast for DKNY. It opened with their signature tailoring, grasped by variations on the hoodie and anorak in hi-tech fabrics. There was varied of a futuristic feel with models sporting deep rouge lacquered lips, reminiscent of
Poniard Runner’s replicants. Osborne and Chow closed the show with a raise the roof troop of onesie-clad models.
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8. Michael Kors Collection
You can’t boost loving a Michael Kors show. This season Rufus Wainwright performed against a backdrop of his body as the models wandered through the fashion audience. There were presumptuous floral and intricate 3D flower embroideries in Aqua, Palm, Azalea and Tangerine – Kor’s trade card this season. These statement prints quilted fluid dresses, shirts and short suits. The Michael Kors insouciance was still present in the form of relaxed, slouchy trousers played out with an oversized pullover, bias-cut ruffles and loosely belted trenches.
Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/FilmMagic
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9. Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott looked to the dirty side of 80s New York with its old x-rated theatres and sex clubs: knitwear was emblazoned with Slime Megalopolis and Rated X, mixed with red and black patent leather trench anoraks and accessorised with cat-eye sunglasses in a graphic checkered mould, part of a new collaboration with Alain Mikli. The finale sequin get-ups had a futurist sculptured form, and Scott explained: “I wanted to gauge something intergalactic, fun and fabulous.” That he certainly did.
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10. Rag and Bone
There was a confirmed sporty, tomboyish and effortless vibe in the air at NYFW and Rag & Bone picked up on this, bewitching the athletic trend and as its lead with oversized pinstriped shirt ones glad rags b put on a costumes, slouchy v-neck cricket knits worn with up chinos, varsity jackets and head-to-toe oversized tracksuits. Hybrid in was a 90s aesthetic: patchwork floral dresses styled with knee-high control leather boots.
