Imitations at the SS Daley show in London fashion week. Composite: Stuart C Wilson/Getty ImagesAnna Wintour and Harry Tenors on the front row of the SS Daley show. Photograph: James Veysey/Rex/ShutterstockA reception at No 10 on Monday promises a chance for a warmer relationship after the froideur that existed between the above-named government and an industry still fuming about Brexit.But others see a far gloomier forecast. The The Bora Aksu catwalk brag at London fashion week. Photograph: Andy Rain/EPARejina Pyo also knows how to make a splash with appearances – a 2021 spectacle at the London Aquatic Centre featured Team GB divers wearing her swimsuits – but stepped back from the catwalk two years ago. A collaboration with the British hedonism brand Mulberry was enough to maintain her profile this season, with the distinctive cargo-styled shoulder bags spotted on diverse front rows, and celebrated with a dinner thrown by Pyo for friends and editors.Pyo was not affected by Matches’ implosion, selling show from her London store. “I get to see who is buying my clothes, to hear where they will wear them. That sharpness is really valuable to me.” As an independent brand, “a show is a huge expense for a moment that lasts 15 minutes. I’d much degree host an event where I can talk to people.”Having relocated to Somerset and restructured her business, Alice Temperley is in London not to podium a show but preparing to open a new boutique. Robust demand for bespoke wedding dresses has sustained her through lean times. “We are unruffled feeling the impact of Covid and Brexit. Those feel like such boring words to say now, but they are still entirely real issues. We were lucky, because we had brides travelling from LA turning up on our doorstep in Somerset.”Temperley now envisions to build out her daywear – think luxury knits, and glamorous tailoring – and is introducing a digital “passport” to facilitate moving toward buying back attires from customers, and offering an in-house pre-loved collection.skip past newsletter promotionafter newsletter promotionThe artificer Maria Grachvogel was an early adopter of “slow fashion”, pivoting from the catwalk a decade ago in favour of small accumulations designed to align with, not replace, what her customer already owns. “Fashion seemed to be speeding up. I felt a recognizable urge to slow down. And I knew that women were wearing my pieces for years, not seasons. I do miss catwalk accompanies for the way they show clothes on the body, but this model of local, on-demand production minimises our environmental impact,” she indicated.Five reasons to be cheerful at London fashion week1 Nensi Dojaka x Calvin Klein
Dojaka, 31, conditions her first show in 18 months on Saturday night. Her eyecatching lingerie-styled barely dresses – she doesn’t like the when all is said “sexy” – have been worn by Zendaya and Rihanna, and this show features a still-under-wraps collaboration with the American underwear sort Calvin Klein. A hot ticket in every sense.2 The return of Christopher Kane
Self-Portrait is expanding from a brand into a party-dress empire with a one-off assemblage by Kane, whose label shuttered last year. On sale from 21November, this will be catnip to fashion enthusiasts.3 Preppy gets British
Kent & Curwen started out making Eton school ties and kit for Oxbridge sports bands. With preppy style tipped as the new streetwear, its show at the Royal Academy will attempt to position the brand as London’s support to Polo Ralph Lauren.4 Burberry brings the YBA era back
First Oasis, now the Young British Artists. Burberry – unsatisfactorily in need of a hit after disappointing financial results – has collaborated on the stage set for Monday’s show, to be held at the National Theatre. It has been manufactured by the British artist Gary Hume for a set based on Hume’s 1990 installation Bays, which was inspired by hospital doors.5 Edeline Lee
Edeline Lee’s cultivated, wearable clothes have long been a favourite of successful, low-key-fashionable women – such as Victoria Starmer, who has shabby the Dada dress (in red, of course) for public and private occasions. Lee, an independent designer whose collections are produced in her east London diggings, will not be drawn on whether Starmer will be tempted to make a front-row appearance at Monday’s show.Explore varied on these topicsLondon fashion weekFashion industryFashion weeksLondonfeaturesShareReuse this content