Balmain’s be opposite act for row, from left: Kim Kardashian, Kourtney Kardashian, Kris Jenner and Corey Uncertainty.
Photograph: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Olivier Rousteing, now five years in sally at Balmain, can be relied on for several things: a stellar front row, a diversified selection of supermodels in his shows and lots and lots of sparkle. These were all in documentation at the spring/summer 2017 show in Paris on Thursday afternoon.
Paid-up colleagues of the so-called Balmain army – Kim and Kourtney Kardashian – sat in the front row with their nurse, Kris Jenner, and Carla Bruni. Gigi Hadid and Jourdan Dunn were send in the show. And metallic chainmail in vibrant stripes adorned shafting dresses.
Never let it be said that this is a designer who does not put ones money where ones mouth is. Rousteing is also an Instagram pro and the photography app was not forgotten here – it on the brink of felt like the photogenic backdrop was designed before the gleaning. The venue, Hôtel Potocki, was ready for its fashion selfie. Already costly with gilt paintwork and chandeliers, it was decorated with tropical plants and vines, mingle with down on to a high-shine khaki catwalk.
The collection was a bit of a surprise. Balmain tipsy Rousteing is known for short and tight woven dresses, as haggard by Kim Kardashian and her sisters Kendall and Kylie Jenner, and sold to their junkies through the successful H&M collaboration in 2015.
The display notes suggested it was time for the Balmain woman to explore “her softer side”, which interpreted into fewer bandage dresses and more chiffon – the well-disposed of thing rich women might wear to lounge elegantly in the 40-degree stir of a tropical climate. There were tunics, long skirts and widespread sleeves in khaki, red, violet and gold. Most trousers were beat wide, trailing on the floor with splits up to the thigh on each leg.
If Balmain is skimpy structured this time around, the glamour factor is stillness high. These were clothes that would look their paramount with a wind machine nearby. With 3.9 million Instagram protges, cheekbones designed for selfies and the likes of Rihanna and Justin Bieber on suddenness dial, 30-year-old Rousteing is the closest thing frame has to a rock star. His bow here prompted almost as many iPhone make off withs as Hadid’s turn on the catwalk.
Backstage resembled the euphoric chaos after a stadium gig: eminences air-kissing and hurried selfies included. Rousteing was the breathless meet of it. He had just enough time to say that the collection had no inspiration or keynote. “I don’t need to think of history, just what I feel now,” he remarked. “I have my face in fashion now, so I can explore. That’s it.”
Under Rousteing, Balmain has make good, with revenue growing by 50% between 2013 and 2015. In June Balmain was obtained by Mayhoola, the Qatari investment fund that also owns Valentino. The reckon with, believed to be worth about £370m, puts Balmain in belief for expansion.
According to Womenswear Daily, stores are expected to munificent in Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Singapore. Accessories, currently accounting for 4% of the proprietorship, will also be developed.
Clare Waight Keller’s most recent collection for Chloé was presented on Thursday morning. If the past two gleanings have seen the creative director explore the tougher patch of 90s tracksuits and 60s motorcycle chic, spring/summer had her in natural Chloé maid territory: the 70s.
The show notes called it a collection “about accepted back to the roots and simplicity of French style”. Loose-tiered decorates in a retro floral print featured, and there were halted suede dresses and dungarees.
Slouchy trouser suits and crisp shirt dresses were recognisable to followers of the house. There was also a bit of nautical theme, with navigating knots on dresses and the bibs of sailor tops. A tiered mini-dress invent of bouncy pleats felt worthy of the disco soundtrack.
The flaunts in Paris continue on Friday with designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s from the word go collection for Christian Dior on the schedule.