In the lead-up to his Yeezy Season 4 ostentation, Kanye West ruffled some fashion feathers. The assign call for “multiracial women only” was branded controversial, and the last-minute spot that the show would be streaming via Tidal had many reasoning it would follow the non-traditional model of February’s Season 3 overshadow (an album playback-cum-art installation). And in an interview with Vogue posted hours ex to the show, West made a point of being anti-elitist. He communicated his garments were “apparel”, not fashion, with a purposefully restrictive colour palette to give them a timeless appeal.
Ignoring these purist intentions, initial reports about the clarify, which took place in Four Freedoms Park on Roosevelt Ait, sounded more Zoolander than utilitarian. There was a duration delay, models fell, collapsed in the heat and many intelligence that model Jasmine Sanders was, in fact, Malia Obama.
But what in all directions the clothes? We’d already seen West’s wife Kim Kardashian in perspex, over-the-knee boots, and this gleaning focused on close-fitting styles: athleisure unitards, knitted cut-out pinch backs, oversize hoodies and jackets, and elasticated separates.
The colour projection was toned down from the earth tones of red, sand and orange that call the shotted Season 3. Instead, the palette was creme, beige, in the nuddy, brown and muted pistachio. Its had quite a mass appeal and honed Yeezy’s aesthetic: terra firma bodycon. Take pleasure in Season 3, it was also a statement about black female belle and style, which is a victory in itself.
If West was experimenting with what mould means now, Tom Ford, who showed later in the day, went for old-school attractiveness. Fresh from promoting his film Nocturnal Animal in Venice, he outshone at the legendary Four Seasons hotel with a frow that was darned Hollywood (Tom Hanks, Jon Hamm and Julianne Moore). The clothes were equally sumptuous: shimmering sequins and ombre feathers met leather and velvet in pencil-thin contours evoking classic Tinseltown glamour and elegance.