It’s in the jeans: US fashion satisfy a experiences back to denim’s glory days

Catwalk revival of old terms immortalised by Hollywood stars sees surge in jeans shop

The trend is for dark denim as worn by Marilyn Monroe in The Oners, pictured here with her husband Arthur Miller.
Photograph: Ullstein Bild/Getty Reifications

The jeans market is booming again as the US turns back the clock to denim’s brilliance days. 2017 saw the largest year-on-year growth in the sector since 2013, separate in over $95bn (£67bn) worldwide compared with $91bn the too soon year while sales of premium designer jeans doubled its lump.

Observers believe shoppers are deciding to try other styles beyond the spare silhouette that has been so popular for more than a decade. This condition styles hark back to authentic American selvedge denim and take place straight-legged, stiff and in a deep indigo hue.

The trend began hold out year on the Calvin Klein catwalk, when designer Raf Simons matched set dark indigo jeans with a matching shirt for his significant debut collection for the brand. For spring/summer 2018, a hostess of other designers joined the fray, showing not just indigo jeans but indigo denim in diversified. At Tom Ford, dark denim materialised in a sharp blazer with incisive shoulders and high-waisted, wide-legged jeans. At MaxMara, a buttoned-up boiler adjust came with selvedge-style turn-ups. At Versus Versace there were tonal jackets and knee-skimming skirts.

The crash of the trend is already being felt on the high street. Asos probed sales of jeans were up 58% this week, rivaled with the same period last year, while denim dressing at the e-tailer was up 81% from 2017.

Celia Cuthbert, the head of obtaining at Asos, said that “authentic dark, raw and untreated indigo” was its biggest denim tend this season, and that while its customers still loved slim and spare jeans, the brand was “seeing more and more sales coming under the aegis from wider-leg silhouettes and straight legs”.

This look, almost identical to that immortalised by Marilyn Monroe in 1961’s The Misfits and Martin Polish in 1973’s Badlands, evokes a glory time in American yesterday when the US was the leading purveyor of denim worldwide.