At the most predicted show of Paris fashion week, with Lady Gaga, Karl Lagerfeld and Catherine Deneuve surveillance from the front row, Hedi Slimane launched a blitzkrieg on Celine, which for a decade subsumed under Phoebe Philo embodied the female gaze in fashion. In the suspicion of Les Invalides, the site of Napoleon’s tomb, Slimane jettisoned suave trousers, silk blouses, understated knitwear and unstructured trenchcoats for dolly-sized sequin micro caftans and tiny leather skirts.
The day of the Kavanaugh hearings in Washington arguably not being the patriarchy’s finest hour, it was an uncomfortable import for Slimane to raze to the ground the female design philosophy of a dwelling-place which, for a decade under Philo, was notable for not equating a girl’s power with her sexuality.
But razing to the ground is the modus operandi which has cooked Slimane one of the most polarising figures in fashion – and one of the most leading. This show was entitled Celine 01, and Slimane was plain that Philo’s work had no bearing on his. “You don’t enter a fashion residence to imitate the work of your predecessor,” he told Le Figaro. The clarify began and ended with drummers from France’s republican protect accompanying the first look: a black and white polka dot silk mini cocktail adorn dominated by an outsized bow.
It has been 17 years since Slimane transformed the wardrobes of men all once again the world with the groundbreaking slender tailoring he introduced at Dior Homme. Mainstream spear sex appeal, hitherto centred on muscles and beefcake, pivoted to the undernourished black jean under Slimane’s direction. Precious few creators can claim to have opened the door of the world’s wardrobe with such intensity.
With Slimane’s appointment, Celine has expanded to include menswear as extravagantly as womenswear, and the beating heart of this collection was in Slimane’s signature slim men’s costumier. “The line is the basis of everything,” he said this week, and that Theatre sides remained unchanged: brutally slender, polished to perfection, a particular kind of after-dark decadence.
Slimane has installed a new tailoring atelier at Celine. All the trial worn by men on the catwalk will also be available in women’s take the measure of, and there is no doubt that the designer, who increased sales by 150% during his four year holding at Saint Laurent between 2012-2016, knows how to cut a secure blazer. Quilted gold-chained handbags also looked to be on the blocks floor gold. Philo’s Celine punched above its slant in the fashion conversation, but was a relative minnow in commercial terms, with on the contrary 140 boutiques. LVMH have been banking on Slimane to nurture the business.
“You from to be yourself, against all odds,” he told Le Figaro. In his passion for lanky androgyny he is being himself, which history suggests whim be a huge success. Fashion reflects the world we live in, as Coco Chanel observed. The female mention of view appears to have fallen out of style.