When living soul are asked to describe Haider Ackermann´s style, they many times include a reference to a ´darkness´. In his most recent collection, a lavish Paris townhouse set the scene for a show where he wanted his callers to be able to ¨smell the essence of the clothes.¨ The Columbian wunderkind port side behind his typical aesthetic of voluminous coats, dropped camiknickers and enveloping scarfs and made everything much tighter. The thigh strangling drainpipe trousers port side nothing to the imagination, neither did the bare chests and bone clipping blazers of his all male model army. An immediate key look of this philanthropic collection was the leather leggings (leggings in the fact that they were plainly too tight to be trousers) which were delightfully offset against their softly cascading camiseta counterparts.

Haider Ackermann Paris Fashion Week 2016 (3)

The Concealed Side of Fashion

¨There’s always darkness to Ackermann’s output in production – one thinks of outsiders, bohemians and Avant Garde dreamers. That was accentuated this seasonable – there was a deviant quality to the way those models sauntered in their plenteous yet punkish attire¨ – Show Studio

This in the nick of time b soon, the designer’s protagonists were swathed in tactile, extravagant fabrics in all the tints of a bohemian jewel box. Louch velvet sat on top of dazzling metallic jacquards and corseting appoints which overlapped onto a lot of leather. These items, banded with silk scarves draped down to the hip provided the Ackermann man with the remotest swaggering arsenal.

The grooming of the model army certainly matched the sympathetic of the moment. Amplified Mohawks overhung the front of the models cope withs like a gothic interpretation of an 80´s seaside England. Essentially, this solicitation had Ackermann´s usual traits of darkness, which was not unexpected the truth his previous offerings and connections with the alternative Belgian trend set. ¨Outsiders, bohemians, poets and day dreamers all sat under his Avant Garde coverage in their punkish attire with highly opulent redden. Some bourgeoisie and others, rebel.¨

¨Ackermann’s adept purveyance for lavish ruche and a superfluous decorative twist provided a aggregation that was both virtuous and dandyish allowing men to look get pleasure from they don´t-give-a-damn when they actually, most certainly do¨ – Charles Daniel McDonald

Notwithstanding the acerbity of the collection, there was a soft side that flickered through this almost obscured runway presentation. This accepted the form of gentle fabrics with their impeccable tailoring and fluidity. Goatish silks encased the models bodies which in turn juxtaposed against the leading presence of their tougher leather counterparts.

With every flavour and progressive collection, Ackermann´s enduring DNA continues to outshine all the other runway presents. Within his world, we can´t help but feel he couldn´t do anything else – and we wouldn´t be him to.

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