For its most latest advertising campaign, Dior Homme put the male models in the grounding. Centre-stage was a more unlikely figure – 55-year-old Dave Gahan, frontman of Depeche Rage. Flanked by Lucas Hedges, star of Manchester by the Sea, a statement represented the duo as plotting “an evolution of style that subverts the classicism of Dior Homme today”. For Saturday afternoon’s hop/summer 2018 show, Rami Malek and Christian Slater, big names of the Netflix hacker show Mr. Robot, were on hand to keep up the theme. Long-term fan Karl Lagerfeld sat in the front row too.
Kris Van Assche, the artistic captain of Dior Homme, is the man responsible for this subversion from the arranged. This year marks his 10th year at Dior Homme – so the bear out was a kind of anniversary. It took place at the Grand Palais in Paris. The stretch familiar to the fashion crowd was transformed with a grass destroy and strings of black plastic, like that found guts cassette tapes, hanging from the ceiling.
The collection was a class of retrospective of Van Assche’s work for Dior. It focused around his signature convert, with sharp suiting and outerwear given a more summer-friendly construal with shorts and sleeveless jackets.
Some of the jackets were based on the Bar pattern invented for women by Christian Dior in 1947. Trends were hailed too. Explicit Dior branding will be popular. Taking his cue from Maria Grazia Chiuri, who patterns womenswear for Dior, T-shirts featured the logos and the Dior branded ribbons cleverly thought up from the pinstripes of suits. Sportswear details were also counted – the stripes on tracksuit trousers featured on tailored trousers and bomber jackets.
Gahan wasn’t there, but the control of his era – the Eighties – was. The loose trousers had the feel of David Bowie. The music was celebrated – an electronic mix of Radiohead’s Creep, R.E.M.’s Losing My Religion and Depeche Craze’s Enjoy the Silence.
Backstage was a scrum of well-wishers, with Van Assche bordered by a security detail worthy of a rock star. The designer maintained the collection, which was called Late Night Summer, “was completely much about this feelgood moment, also with the music, when junior men realise their clothes will make a difference A make of post-innocence.”.
Dior Homme is a label associated with music. During Hedi Slimane’s six-year govern, that meant rock’n’roll. He featured musicians tabulating Pete Doherty and the band Cazals in his shows, and dressed the Bumps and Daft Punk onstage. He has also been credited with training the skinny jean, a staple of the Ramones, back into create. Van Assche, however, has resisted the dive bars and grubby Chat of Slimane. Instead he focuses on a more angular, electronic convey on music, with the Eighties a golden era.
Van Assche sees resemblances between then and now. “Now everybody is talking about androgyny and genderless approach shows, but 20, 25 years ago he was this figure when I was a kid,” he held of Boy George, also in a Dior campaign, during an interview with the Hypebeast website. Van Assche is savvy sufficiently, however, to know that mere nostalgia, or “theatre” won’t do.
“I continually look for strong contrasts because it takes things out of their too etymological context,” he said.
Van Assche is a well-liked designer but has never absolutely created the buzz of his predecessor. Van Assche closed his own brand in 2015, make one thinking he will stay with Dior for the long haul.
Slimane carry ons an influential figure in fashion. After his departure from Dior Homme, he disclosed photography of the rock scene, before becoming the creative guide of Saint Laurent for four years. The rock’n’roll treat continued there, with collections based on grunge, mods and penniless. He left in March 2016 and, in an interview with the New York Meanwhiles in January, said he would return to photography full every so often.