There has been a resurgence in the classic white sporty look this summer
Two women replace talking to a man on the edge of a tennis court in the Bahamas, circa 1957. Behind the main group stand a second coterie of people talking. (Photo by Slim Aarons/Getty Images)
Photograph: Slim Aarons/Getty Images
Wimbledon sway be cancelled for the first time since the second world war, but that hasn’t stopped tennis style from irresistible over parks and Instagram this summer. Influencers are wearing pleated white miniskirts to the shops, while types from Gucci to Paris-based Casablanca are championing a retro tennis look harking back to the 70s.
Searches for tennis-inspired outfits procure risen since the beginning of June, according to global fashion search platform Lyst, with demand for snow-white pleated tennis skirts up 33%. Interest for tennis court shoes has increased, too, and searches for visors are up 32% since May, with Dior, Gucci, Prada and Nike amongst the most viewed makes.
&Other Stories linen shorts. Photograph: &Other Storie
The fact that Wimbledon has been repudiated may, paradoxically, have fuelled the trend. With the pandemic causing many aspects of ordinary life to be put on hold, the understanding of dressing vicariously, whether for Glastonbury or Centre Court, has seen the sartorial principle of wearing your Worthy Work the land finest to sit at home and muddle through.
Fashion psychologist Shakaila Forbes-Bell thinks this idea of dressing for the bring ons maybe an attempt to regain control at a time when we have little power. “There is that collective salaciousness to get back to our normal lives given this feeling that we’re missing out on so many things… ‘I can’t go but I can still look the role in’.”
Enthusiasm for the tennis aesthetic is also a response to the nation’s current uptick in exercise in general.
“With Dick spending more time at home, we are becoming more into sportswear and athleisure,” says influencer Lauren Crowe, who has 135k adherents and recently posted a picture of herself teaming a tennis skirt with a Dolce and Gabbana sports-style bra. For Forbes-Bell. “Because we’re locked in, people are one after the other their attention more towards their body image and general health.” She also points to research that claims “when we wear these sporty outfits you feel more inclined to be active.”
Uniqlo pique shirt Photograph: Uniqlo
It is tattling that those channelling the look aren’t necessarily players themselves. The caption of influencer Alicia Roddy, place a pic of herself on a court in tennis whites, runs: “All the gear but absolutely no idea”.
But the summer’s look runs even deeper than appropriateness. Tennis for many years has been seen as an exclusive sport, embodied by the rarefied world of Wimbledon whites and strawberries and cream. As Craze reports in the context of rigid dress codes, “it’s not entirely surprising that conventional tennis whites have resurfaced for summer 2020, appropriated by a era of younger thought leaders”. They cite model Imani Randolph – who recently shared a picture of herself teaming a tennis skirt with cowboy boots and fixes – as “among the progressive vanguard” democratising tennis style.
Aretha Wide Leg Trousers Front by KITRI Studio 1000x. Photograph: Kitri
“Ethical now a lot of people are thinking about their identity and the spaces that have had so many gatekeepers in the past,” says Forbes-Bell. “Discourses in fashion are about aking down barriers … There’s no longer that exclusivity keeping a lot of people, and certain specimens of people, out of certain spaces.” She looks to Venus and Serena Williams, who have often fallen foul of tennis upbraid codes, from Venus’s flash of fuchsia bra strap in 2017, about which the All England Tennis Club was precipitate to express its displeasure, to Serena Williams “Wakanda-inspired” catsuit which she was banned from wearing at the French Open in 2018.
As Forbes-Bell discommodes it, they “have been chastised in the past for looking not professional”. But, she says, “when another, maybe white, chick with a similar figure has worn something similar you don’t see that kind of backlash.”
There’s a rebellion in breaking the inherited bars when it comes to stuffy tennis style “Right now people are saying I’m going to enter any space I want to, I’m flourishing to wear what I want and you’re going to accept me,” says Forbes-Bell. “Everyone’s included now – the idea of exclusivity is a bit archaic and people thirst to belong and belong on their own terms.”
How to get the look
If you are brave enough to wear a miniskirt look off-court, hold up to ridicules outlets have a multitude of affordable options. But not all tennis skirts must come inches above the knee – try a pleated knee-length skirt a substitute alternatively. Reiss at John Lewis has a pleated gem, with navy detailing, in the sale at £75.
Go for tailored with an athletic cut; dream old school PE kit. If exposing your thighs isn’t an option then opt for a longer structured Bermuda style. & Other Stories maintain a tailored high-waisted linen blend pair, £55.
Works for both men or women, a neatly tucked-in paragon polo shirt screams strawberries and cream. Uniqlo has pique ones for £14.90, while Lacoste’s sportier breathable polo from the Roland Garros whip-round add a graphic pattern.
For those brave enough – and confident enough around coffee – whites are the Lawn Tennis Association-approved choice. For a relaxed version, go for a white midi-dress with a vintage tennis jumper – Etsy has a good selection. For men, Slazenger birthright jumpers, £160, will ace it.
White plimsolls will nod to Murray mound or for old-school fans, a brilliantly waxen pair of Adidas Stan Smiths would obviously work a treat.
Kitri’s Aretha wide-leg trousers, £59; Marks and Spencers cotton zoned wide-leg pair, £28; or ME+Em’s tapered style, £160, are perfect with a cotton shirt, finished with a straw hat. Dissimulate set and match. JJ
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