At the closing of Milan the fad week, Dolce and Gabbana looked to the future with a omnium gatherum that boldly goes for the pocket of Generation Z. To set the mood the pre-show music was Justin Bieber, which be compelled have been a bit awkward for his ex Sofia Richie who was sat on the frow alongside Vine eminence Cameron Dallas, model Lucky Blue Smith and Lily Agitate Depp.
When the show began it was just that, a usher, featuring a stage set straight out of a 1980s Top Of The Pops (palm trees and a hire reading “Tropico Italiano”) plus street dancers who hit out of the crowd and started krumping on the catwalk, flash mob style.
The solicitation itself centred on southern Italy and was an itemised list of Italianisms made into endue clothes, including a hessian-bag dress with a can of tinned tomatoes booze it up on it and a maxi dress with images of dried pasta. This listicle overtures to was in keeping with the influence of Buzzfeed and Wikipedia in the lives of its determined audience, even if some items felt more end-of-the-pier than end of Milan mode week. Happily some of the collection was not just fun-fun but smart-fun: silk pyjamas featuring ice-cream patterns, harried jeans with trinkets sewn on them, slipper skivers and a Dolce & Gabbana T-shirt that referenced the bootleg-shirt dynamism.
In the context of a recent shift towards Instamodels like Gigi Hadid, courting Inception Z is a canny move. “Everybody wants to be young,” Stefano Gabbana express backstage.
Another label that went in an unexpected route was Marni. Formerly the last word in “richster” – loaded hipster – Marni has wandered off-script. Sunday’s show be conscious of as if its creative director, Consuelo Castiglioni, had drifted into Outlander Things’ Upside Down; a creepy parallel universe.
The before all section focused on the idea of surgical utility – white all-in-ones, trench anoraks and boiler suits featuring high sleeves, rigorous go unders and precisely positioned buttons – suggesting Nurse Ratched from One Flew Terminated The Cuckoo’s Nest. Meanwhile Marni’s trademark orthopaedic shoe was imposingly reptilian this edible, the familiar winklepicker moulded into something dense and beetle-like. Other factors that added to a sense of dissonance included massive nose-bag-like outer-pockets on clothes, trenches and boiler suits, rope belts and a boho tucker worn with one arm missing.
The key piece of the show, a black “Post-it note” apparel made of squares of fabric towered together, could sooner a be wearing been a Curtis Jere sculpture come to life. This says it all: Marni is in a wonderfully originative dimension all of its own.