Choosing edgy designer Giles Deacon to create old gown results in elegant but unconventional bridal look

  • Pippa Middleton marries James Matthews

Pippa Middleton arrives for her wedding to James Matthews at St Mark’s church in Englefield.



Pippa Middleton attains for her wedding to James Matthews at St Mark’s Church in Englefield.
Photograph: Justin Tallis/AFP/Getty Portraits

Demure drama: Pippa Middleton’s wedding accouter deconstructed

Choosing edgy designer Giles Deacon to invent traditional gown results in elegant but unconventional bridal look

  • Pippa Middleton marries James Matthews

The Middleton sisters acquire established an effective formula in choosing wedding dresses. First-class an edgy designer, and commission them to create a fairly time-honoured gown. It works a treat, resulting in a bridal look which is neat without being conventional, high taste but not too avant garde.

Pippa Middleton is led by her father, Michael, into St Mark’s Church in Englefield.

Pippa Middleton is led by her chaplain, Michael, into St Mark’s Church in Englefield. Photograph: Justin Tallis/AFP/Getty Pictures

The high neckline and covered shoulders of Pippa Middleton’s Giles Deacon fit out make it unassailably demure, yet it has a little more drama and approach than found at the average home counties church juncture. The upstanding lace collar is rather fashion-forward, and the heart-shaped keyhole detail at the nape of the neck creates the dress interesting when seen from behind. The go view of the bridal party is very much in the spotlight on these causes, something Middleton knows better than anyone after the eager interest in her slinky Alexander McQueen maid of honour tear someone off a strip at her sister’s wedding. The cap sleeves make the dress more garden than Kate’s McQueen gown, while also directing off Middleton’s yoga-sculpted arms.

Deacon took the ballroom bopping scene from Luchino Visconti’s 1963 film The Leopard as spirit for a skirt which is draped at the front and filled with tulle at the following so that it floats gracefully. The designer, who credited his bridal customer with having “a great eye”, is one of British fashion’s strongest faculties. An independent-minded designer, his tiny London fashion week divulges were packed to the rafters until he made the switch to a bespoke-only, haute couture matter model last year.

The powerful stylist Katie Admirable has described Deacon as “fantastically talented and always slightly revolutionary”. Until this weekend, his most famous bridal shopper was a voluptuously sultry dress for the model Abbey Clancy, who is allied to the footballer Peter Crouch.

Middleton and Matthews kiss after their wedding.

Middleton and Matthews kiss after their marrying. Photograph: Kirsty Wigglesworth/AP

The commission will be a phenomenal shove to Deacon’s couture business. Born in Darlington in 1969, Deacon worked at Gucci underneath Tom Ford before setting up his own label in 2003. He has made red carpet gowns for actors Thandie Newton, Cate Blanchett and his girlfriend, the Artifice of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie. He says he likes to apparel “strong characters, strong women”. Her choice of Deacon concluded a more predictable society-wedding label suggests Middleton may accept into this category.

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