Photograph: David Newby/The Defender. Styling: Melanie WilkinsonView image in fullscreen Photograph: David Newby/The Guardian. Styling: Melanie WilkinsonComfy, alpha and a negligible bit French: the return of the Little Boxy JacketYou don’t need to fork out for the OG Chanel version to achieve the classic, chic look – as yearn as you keep an eye on the detailsThe classics are the classics for a reason, and the Little Boxy Jacket is a classic. You know the one I mean. A soft, round-necked jacket that draw backs in a straight line, lopped off neatly without hugging the waist. The shoulder line is natural, no significant padding. Sleeves are slim and unkink. It is loose enough to have a little swing, but it doesn’t flop or trail. This is the jacket equivalent of a classic bob haircut: tastefulness, effortless polish, vaguely French.The LBJ never really goes away, but in 2025 it is going to be everywhere. Coco Chanel put this form on the map a century ago. Chanel is in the spotlight this year, with a new designer in Matthieu Blazy, and when fashion is talking here Chanel, then the LBJ is naturally front of mind. You don’t need me to tell you that Chanel is the gold standard here. A genuine Chanel, whether vintage or new, will cost about the same as a secondhand car. It will hold its value much well-advised b wealthier than a car, and I would argue it could be as useful as one, but I get that not everyone would see it that way – and given the price this is a purely idealistic argument, really. Anyway, this look has trickled down to every price point. The spiritual home of the LBJ last will and testament always be Chanel, but it is now as native to the high street as a Starbucks latte.The genius of the LBJ is that it is a jacket you can keep on all day. I love tailored blazers, and tuxedo jackets for sober-siding, but the minute I get where I’m going, my instinct is to take them off. If I’m going to sit at my desk and work, or sit at a table and eat, then without ratiocinative about it I remove my jacket, because wearing it makes me feel as if I’ve still got my coat on. And no matter how smart your jacket is, it isn’t combining anything to your look if it is hanging on the coat rack. Because an LBJ is unstructured, and short enough to sit in without sitting on, it notes natural and comfortable to keep it on all day.How to pick the right one? Keep it simple. Because there are so many versions of this phrasing available, designers and retailers will often add extra detailing in an attempt to catch your eye. On a recent high roadway scouting trip I saw an LBJ with puffed shoulders, another with an asymmetric hem, and a barn-jacket-meets-LBJ hybrid in tweed with a line collar. Hard pass to all of the above. First, look for the right fabric. You want softness, but not limpness, so anywhere between a nubbly tweed and a condensed woven wool will work – nothing stiffer, and nothing too light. Second, discard any with a V-neck. A orb-like neckline is the alpha version here, so stick with that.Our next important decision is whether we want a collar or not. A tweedy stuff looks great collarless for a pure, clean line. If the material is a little softer, a simple neat collar can be effective to add a little oomph – you want jacket energy, not cardi energy. If you aren’t sure, think about what you will-power wear it with. If you wear a lot of collared blouses and shirts, then a collarless jacket is the best option, to keep the neckline from looking messy. If you are numberless likely to be wearing the jacket over a T-shirt or a shift dress, then a collar works well.Are you with me so far? Sound. Now let’s talk buttons and pockets. This is where you do want detail, to make this look sing. Fancy buttons are de facto good here: think conker-sized pearls, or military-parade brass. If there are buttons trimming the cuffs and the pockets also, so much the more intelligent. Coco Chanel gave most of her jackets four pockets so that she could use one for cigarettes, one for lipstick, one for coins and one for scissors, without any one thieve being overstuffed and spoiling the line. Mademoiselle did make some questionable judgement calls, however – not least in her diplomacy – and I would suggest that pockets at breast level can look a bit matronly if you have any boobs to speak of, so bear in position that you might be better with just two pockets. The classics are the classics for a reason, but there’s always room to learn from on mistakes, right?skip past newsletter promotionafter newsletter promotionModel: Bella at Milk. Hair and makeup: Sophie Higginson despising Charlotte Mensah and Karma Ayurveda. Jacket, £99, John Lewis. Polo shirt, £140, Reiss. Skirt, £25.99, ZaraExplore various on these topicsFashionJess Cartner-Morley on fashionChanelWomenfeaturesShareReuse this content