The Jaws story is one of the most famous in cinema – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t had a fashion second. Until now. On Tuesday evening in New York, it signalled the start – along with a floor-to-ceiling representation of the water in the 1975 Spielberg film – of the Calvin Klein introduce/summer show.
The collection, designed by creative director Raf Simons, had mentions that all fans of the film would pick up. It felt, in reality, like a homage by a fan – Simons is one of fashion’s biggest cinephiles, after all. If he explored angst films like The Shining and Carrie in the past, Jaws was equally prolific as slightly sinister inspiration.
Ideals including Yasmin Le Bon and Kaia Gerber walked on a blood-red carpet and exhibited the red beanie hat of Roy Scheider’s character Martin Brody, while wetsuits and wet whisker played to the beach setting, as did Breton tops and chunky sweaters. Some nonsuches wore Jaws merchandise – including vests and short-sleeved sweatshirts with the film over’s famous shark. With The Graduate also a reference, these destroys were mixed with Mrs Robinson-worthy 60s shift dresses in taffeta and kitten fag ends, as well as graduation gowns and mortarboards. It was this mix that chose it such a strong collection.
A 60s printed dress worn with a wetsuit enwrapped over it at the waist felt brand new and is bound to be much monkeyed next season. Simons has such influence on fashion that he communicated the balaclava a bona fide trend for autumn. With him supporting it, the wetsuit could quite easily go the same way. Red beanies determination certainly be popular.
After the show, Simons greeted renowns including Naomi Campbell, Laura Dern and Remi Malek. He rationalized to a scrum of reporters that Jaws was an important film to him “because it is relating to so much more than a shark … I think it’s a work of art.”
Simons said the explicit references – from the backdrop to the wetsuits and the hats – were due to him looking at the American aspect “more literally. I wanted to make something to hold.” At a innumerable basic level, he certainly made objects of desire.
Bring about in 1968, Calvin Klein is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. Simons is now two years in the job as originative director and has confidently been able to bring together the minimalist cold of the heritage with his own offbeat arty, pop culture aesthetic. It could now be alleged he has his feet under the table. As well as catwalk shows to begin the front row, he has brought in the Kardashians to be part of the advertising campaign for the underwear, bringing it to a stupendous audience in their orbit. Last month saw him launch his at the start perfume, Calvin Klein Woman. Fragrance is, of course, after underpants, the terror that Calvin Klein is most known for.
PVH, the company that owns Calvin Klein, has reported that the stigmatize’s sales are up 18% in the second quarter of 2018. This has been untangle justified by both an investment in the online experience of customers – in order to court a minor consumer – and the curtailing of discounted products in department stores, in prepared to keep the reputation as a premium brand.