In one nous, the new issue of British Vogue is on the money. A whole issue with no verifiable models. In 2016. And after Alexandra Shulman previously voted no one wants to see real people on the front of her magazine. Non-models are increasing on the catwalk to the facet that they have a name – nodels – and they are comely the norm.
Eckhaus Latta’s show last season stamp the musician Dev Hynes and poet Grace Dunham, who is the sister of novelist and actor Lena. Nasir Mazhar has been street-casting configurations for years (essentially attractive people who don’t necessarily fit the requisite image dimensions) and the Balenciaga show featured head designer Demna Gvasalia’s boyfriend, soul mates and muses – as well as “proper” models.
Still, the fact that Popularity’s “real people” issue is being talked about in the newsflash suggests some of the motivation behind it was publicity. The September broadcasting makes headlines; others not so much.
It may also have been a way to confound the critics: showcasing the people you said no one requirements to see before a petition forces your hand.
Of course this is Favour so they can do what they want, and next month it thinks fitting be business as usual. But there has, undeniably, been a shift in awareness and Shulman is no ninny. Who has the power in the fashion industry – the designers, the magazines or the consumers? We buy attitude magazines for aspirational reasons but we also, sometimes, want that long to feel attainable rather than the stuff of fantasy.
The dispute, out on Thursday, is likely to still feature plenty of pages of advertising, so twist it as a “model-free issue” feels a little misleading. Likewise, Emily Efface is on the cover because the fashion world would probably keep drawn the line at a civilian in that spot. And who knows how wonderfully it will sell? Seeing a successful ice-cream maker in a buttery Hermes make appropriate makes it feel within grasp to real women … unprejudiced if we still can’t afford the suit.