Edward Enninful’s appointment as the new editor of British Vogue have an effects a huge shift in fashion – a black man at the helm of the most started fashion magazine in Britain is exciting, but not just because of Enninful’s family and gender. The stylist has a history of making beautiful, timely – and on controversial – images. He has a reputation as someone who shakes up mainstream the rage titles, and makes them chime with the interests of younger readers. Condé Nast Foreign chief executive Jonathan Newhouse rightly describes Enninful’s apply at Italian Vogue as attaining “landmark status in recent cultural story”.
Ghanian-born Enninful ordain undoubtably bring more diversity to Vogue. As contributing construct editor at Italian Vogue, he oversaw the magazine’s “all-black” edition in 2008, which became a bestselling number (Condé Nast texted an extra 40,000 copies). As fashion and style director at W he run with known A-listers (Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson), but also defended diversity of models and celebrities. Naomi Campbell, Rihanna, Ruth Negga and Jourdan Dunn were selected subjects.
Enninful has been vocal about the need to suppose change from the inside in this largely white vigour. “If you put one model in a show or in an ad campaign, that doesn’t solve the trouble,” he said at a talk last year. “We need teachers in universities, we sine qua non internships, we need people of different ethnic backgrounds in all withs of the industry. That really is the solution; you have to change it from the internal.” Arguably his appointment is a sign that this is beginning to develop. British Vogue has previously been called out for its lack of variety in model casting. In 2015, Dunn became the first blacklist model to be the solo star on the cover since Campbell in 2002.
As someone who has fit in in fashion since the late 80s and has been in New York for six years, Enninful is fabulously secure. He regularly works with Steven Meisel, one of the most in-demand photographers in the latest thing. Campbell and Rihanna aren’t just models in his shoots – they are cheerleaders and chums. Campbell accompanied Enninful to Buckingham Palace last year to be paid his OBE. To celebrate, she and Kate Moss hosted a party, which was escorted by Madonna. His last Instagram post was a birthday tribute to Marc Jacobs, with a exact replica of the two of them arm-in-arm. Having these household names on celerity dial will no doubt mean British Vogue’s promote will rise internationally.
What leave the pages of Enninful’s Vogue look like? Knock-out discharges are a sure thing – though it’s unclear if he will continue to label them. Enninful is 44 and a younger point of view muscle well be introduced. He has always wanted to “talk about the outdates we live in”. In line with that, Enninful – who has 483,000 pupils on Instagram – has said how much he loves social media and has been perfunctory to work with so-called Insta-girls such as Gigi and Bella Hadid. Dialect mayhap a melding of the digital and print sides of Vogue may be encouraged. Varied diverse cover stars are surely a given.
If current Last word editor Alexandra Shulman came from a features spotlight – the daughter of a theatre critic for the Evening Standard, who worked at the Sunday Telegraph and GQ earlier joining Vogue in 1992 – Enninful’s strength is certainly idols, which perhaps signals that there will be a immediacy shift at Vogue. He saw off other candidates – Vogue’s deputy writer Emily Sheffield and the Financial Times’ Jo Ellison – more be like to Shulman. This suggests Condé Nast is in the mood to gyration things up rather than continue in the tradition of the last 25-year-tenure. Shulman has been suave in the handover. She posted her congratulations on Instagram, writing: “I hope you adoration Vogue as much as I have.”