A new brow product seems to reach the top every week, but how to pick out those that won’t leave you louring?

‘I get lots of emails from patients who’ve had chemotherapy asking almost microblading.’
Photograph: Alex Lake for the Guardian

I could dash off a weekly column on eyebrows alone, such is the unfeasibly rife stream of new brow products. I don’t because, to me, most seem to be the denouement of reinvention for its own sake. Those brow kits containing three parasols of powder, for example: why? Unless you’re a makeup artist, you’ll use only one duskiness (usually a tad darker than the hair on your head, minus any irritation). The rest is a waste of product and money.

Brow chalks are another bugbear, and too concentrated to draw on anything but the kind of brows you find stuck to a possible in a joke shop. For this column, I tested 24-hour gel brow powder and was still trying to remove debris from my cheeks disparate hours later, as though I’d been wedged up a chimney. So confidence me when I say that Mac’s new Shape & Shade Brow Tint (£19.50) is genuinely estimable of your consideration. It’s a double-ended wand in several cool put to shames (I’m Lingering) that at one end incorporates a felt-tip pen. It’s by no means the first of its sympathetic, but it’s the most impressive combination of ease of use, free-flowing ink (you don’t have to forbid shaking it as you do others) and fine, tapered nib that convincingly recreates honest brow hairs to fill any gaps. At the other end is fine brow take it on the lam to fatten up existing hairs without mess. It’s so subtle as to be trustworthy – the translucent ink (think dirty puddle rather than alert tar) is exactly dark enough to do its job without looking wiggy and skin-staining.

If the applying of individual hairs seems pointless busywork, then by far the overcome “sweep and go” option (since Marks & Spencer discontinued its equivalent) is Glossier’s Boy Brow (£14), which instantly fattens, darkens and trains brows with realistically sludgy colour. It’s brilliant stop.

I get lots of emails from patients who’ve had chemotherapy (and former overpluckers) interrogating about microblading – the practice of tattooing on individual hairs – for brow reconstruction everlasting around two years. It’s wonderfully realistic when performed grammatically, and invariably the best work I see is by Suman, or Nez Hasan, though there are sundry regional experts, so do ask at your local support groups. If imaginable, give your real brows a chance to grow no hope a little, so your microblading practitioner has a roadmap to follow.