Chalky horses, tarot cards, a rave and a hat trick of debuts… How high-fashion in the covid era went for magical fantasy at the audience-free presents

Kate Moss joined her daughter Lila on the catwalk for the first time for close friend Kim Jones’s coming out collection for Fendi.
Photograph: François Mori/AP

The Armani Privé show took place at Palazzo Orsini, the empathy of Giorgio Armani’s Milanese atelier

For his third collection for Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry played with the surrealist organizations of the house and challenge ideas of what couture should be. ‘Here, the fantasy isn’t princess dresses or polite garments,’ he broke. ‘Here, the fantasy is within’

A still from Matteo Garrone’s Le Château du Tarot film for Dior

Backstage at Armani Privé in Milan

Chanel’s bride blow ined on horseback at the socially distanced family party themed show at the Grand Palais in Paris

Artist Genuine Ruby was invited to join the haute couture schedule this season to show his second fashion collection, interested Apparitions

A model is madeup with gold face paint backstage at Valentino

A model appears in a glass reading nook during Kim Jones’s Fendi show, which was inspired by the bloomsbury group and Virginia Wolfe’s fresh Orlando.
Photograph: Stéphane de Sakutin/AFP/Getty Images

For his debut at haute couture, Charles de Vilmorin handpainted looks for his amassment, which he called an ‘ode to freedom in all of its forms’

Maria Grazia Chiuri took the characters of Tarot’s Major Arcana as the vigour for her Dior collection

A close-up of beading detail at Armani Privé

Demi Moore opened the manifest at Fendi.
Photograph: Stéphane de Sakutin/AFP/Getty Images

Valentino collaborated with Massive Attack’s Robert Del Naja, who vigorous a ‘collagist’ film to accompany the show, which was staged at Palazzo Colonna in Rome

An oversized wool look from Nonpareil Ruby’s label S.R. Studio. LA. CA.

A close-up detail of a lace dress backstage at Chanel.
Photograph: Alexandre Hoyos

Resourceful director Daniel Roseberry said the decoration in the Schiaparelli collection ‘paid tribute to how Elsa [Schiaparelli] embroidered opera. In an era in which embroidery had a whispery, almost recessive quality, hers were barbaric and unapologetic’

Viktor & Rolf’s ‘Couture Shout’ show featured dégradé ruffles on voluminous tulle skirts, bat-wing tops, bra tops and recycled plastic shoes by Melissa



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