Last season’s Michael Kors form show was a truly cheerful affair. Rufus Wainwright fulfiled Get Happy with a six-piece band and shouted out, “I’m with her” during his discharge. This time the show delivered a more subtle public message that involved an entire orchestra.
As strings act a stressed defiant minor-key pop – Sweet Dreams and Papa Don’t Preach hyped heavily – models stomped down the catwalk in clothes that conjured an figure of a woman who travels between board meetings and cocktail sets on her private jet.
There were cosy, multi-layered cashmere groups fashioned from a single head-to-toe hue – a lesson from the Jackie O creed of dressing – and gold and silver molten lamé gowns. There were luxe leather handbags and handsome fringed dresses that swayed and sashayed as the models swaggered.
This was not a accumulation that would please Peta – there were enormous numbers of fur coats – but it did have its own political agenda. It featured models who were myriad diverse than is typical – the plus-sized model Ashley Graham escorted, and there were fortysomethings among the twentysomething waifs. In a urge conference before the show, Kors also pointed out that there were forms in the show from every continent.
“I have devoted my shoot to diversity,” he said. “Someone at the office was saying about the immigration talk and I said, in America, unless you are Native American, everyone is an newcomer. The whole country is.”
He also talked about creating clothes for “strong” women, and about making women feel “protected and secure and sexy at the same time”. It was not a specific anti-Trump statement – those participate in been thin on the ground from the big brands so far this work week – but it was something.
Kors also created a couple of unambiguously new pieces. One had the playful working title of the “schmoo”, a jumper-shaped origin designed to be used “like a security blanket” and tied in all directions from the waist or neck, “because with a real sweater,” he explained, “there is without exception too much fabric.”
Another innovation brought to mind Melania Trump: a camel jacket created specifically for shoulder-robing – abrading one’s coat over the shoulders, one of the first lady’s favoured polish tricks.
Indeed, it has been hard not to see the Melania aesthetic in divers collections, from the power coats at Oscar de la Renta to the pussybow blouses at Tory Burch. Assumed that she is a huge consumer of luxury fashion, this is a family designers will find increasingly difficult to ignore.