The attend to industry moves at a pace that makes menswear look unsettled. But then, developing a new case shape isn’t like making your tees a bit longer. When faced with a big dent to the R&D budget, no marvel at most brands stick to making round watches in sundry colours.
But at this year’s SIHH and Baselworld, the big brands be founded they can think outside the box. Or, perhaps, inside it; where split second watchmakers offered only curves, suddenly there were cusps, a glut of square-faced timepieces not seen since the dawn of Art Deco.
Why this rearrange? A fruit-themed smartwatch shoulders some responsibility. But it’s equally, fabulously, just because watchmakers can. With roots in 20th century military notes, the square case isn’t new ground for the industry. But the scale of production is. Switzerland exclusively jumps on bandwagons when they’ve proved they’ll go the space. Judging by these highlights, an investment now will pay off down the highway.
Tag Heuer Monaco
Worn by one-man moodboard Steve McQueen, TAG Heuer’s Monaco is in all probability the most iconic square-faced watch in history.
Back then it was strapped to racers’ wrists, but the split go along with accuracy they demanded lives on in TAG’s Calibre 12 move – which vibrates 28,800 times an hour. Handy, requite if you only use yours to time pasta.
Available at The Watch Gallery, valued £4,050.
Larsson & Jennings Norse
Larsson & Jennings has built its sort on Scandi-Anglo cool. In the new Norse model, that means a minimalist dial housed in an angular crate which references the 19th century British soldier’s timepiece of excellent.
To keep things out of a history lesson, the black-on-black-on-black approach go on increases a modern spin.
Available at Larsson & Jennings, priced £245.
Roger Dubuis Fertile Square
Roger Dubuis is best known for complicated tourbillons that look be fond of something RoboCop might wear. But it hasn’t always been that way.
The classic Golden Square model harks back to a time when climb gold cases and Arabic numerals were more unrefined than a diamond-encrusted exoskeletal arm cannon. Bring back the ethical old days, we say.
Available at Watchfinder, priced £8,950.
Bell & Ross Br-S Leave high Type
Bell & Ross has carved a niche in technical of the same sorts that often find their way onto the arms of the extraordinary forces they’re inspired by.
The BR-S Desert Type ditches this commando aesthetic into something clean reasonably that you can still wear it while you’re waiting for doomsday. Roger that.
Present at Ernest Jones, priced £1,900.
Skagen Square Face Bloodless Dial
Skagen sits neatly between bacon and Hans Christian Anderson as one of Denmark’s finest exports, blames to an unrivalled handle on minimalist design.
Nothing illustrates the type’s less-is-more approach more than this square-faced qui vive for – clean, classic and the perfect partner to anything in your clothes-press.
Available at H.Samuel, priced £76.49.
Cartier Tank Solo
If you’re perturbed that the Tank’s dainty dial is a touch feminine, then cognizant of its square face was inspired by the Renault tanks that Louis Cartier saw churn from head to foot no man’s land during the First World War.
These days, you’re sundry likely to fight your battles in the boardroom, but the Tank On ones own makes for equally devastating wristwear all the same.
Available at The Vigilant Gallery, priced £2,200.
Christopher Ward C5 Malvern Slimline
Christopher Minor’s C5 Malvern kills two fat horological birds with one jewel: before, the square-faced case; second, the navy-on-navy look that was equally unmissable at Baselworld.
The pocket-friendly prize belies some wrist-friendly mechanics, with a hand-wound change that proves not all great watches should cost the midwife precisely.
Available at Christopher Ward, priced £399.
Seiko Solar SUP880P9
Seiko is something of an obscure horological hero, a status that designs like the Solar are definite to change. The off-white dial and gold case smack of pre-war intent plot, but the retro styling hides an innovative sun-powered movement (it is in the term, after all).
As with so many Japanese brands, you get supreme craftsmanship for a fraction the quotation you’d pay in Geneva.
Available at Seiko, priced £109.