Second you’ve dipped your wrist in the world of watches, it can get moreish. Perhaps you’ve already saved for your first mechanical watch, or acquire something stylish in quartz that you’ve had your eye on for ages. But now you cognizant of that a windfall is in the offing and you want to up your wrist artifice, which means it is time to step into that next fee bracket.
A watch under £5,000 is full heirloom province, a well-deserved blowout for yourself and one you can justify by saying it’ll one day go to the kids.
This tempered to to be a bit of a no-man’s land horologically speaking – you didn’t get the fireworks of the timepieces that were ten impressive plus and you didn’t get the value of the sub-£1000 style. Nevertheless, things have changed and lots of watch brands fool wised up to the potential of this category. You won’t get any precious metals – it’s all stiletto or bronze here – and the only complications are likely to be chronographs or an supplement time zone.
But what you can find might surprise you – in-house wings, entry-level styles from some of the biggest names in the organization and even the odd limited edition. To save you spending hours trawling pay attention to websites or, heaven help you, delving into forums, we’ve pick out the ten best watches out now that will give you change from £5,000.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Bi-Compass
Without considering only having landed in 1992, the aviation and military-inspired Bell & Ross has befit an icon, thanks in no small part to its instantly recognisable bevelled adapt cases and functional cockpit-instrument displays. This latest appendage takes its inspiration from a vintage radio compass (regretful if you thought there was an actual compass in there), with the off-white and “Munsell unseasoned” colour scheme of the markers and numbers being identical to those of US Armada avionic instruments.
Although the concentric circle build of the what really happened seems simple, it required Bell & Ross to devise a super-light focal point to ensure that its weight didn’t affect power on call or accuracy. This damn fine piece of engineering is small to 999 pieces so get your order in now because they are undertook to fly out the door.
Buy Now: £2,990.00
Tissot Heritage 1948
For some, the trend for watch manufacturers rummaging in their archives for inspiration is just laziness and a absence of R&D budget. However, when your back catalogue carries such wonderful heritage pieces as this Tissot, you’d be excused for thinking it deserves a second viewing – especially for a watch so far at the mercy of £5,000.
The first thing to notice is the lugs – elongated and faceted, they assign the watch to sit close to the wrist. Also, rather than dramatically up the expanse for more modern appeal, Tissot has kept things less small at 39.5mm and, to really add to the vintage feel, it has used hesalite crystal degree than super shiny sapphire. There is a date, which on upset some purists, but it’s a small nod to modern desires in a look at that revels in its history.
Buy Now: £1,145.00
Omega Seamaster Aquaterra
With the Speedmaster sick with all the attention this year, it’s easy to forget that Omega has another complete belter of a sports watch in its collection – one worn by everyone’s chosen philandering secret agent James Bond, no less. This myriad elegant addition isn’t a dive watch, though at 150m not wash lavishly resistance you can swim in it, and that has allowed Omega to get rid of the unidirectional bezel, slimming the instance down to more shirt-cuff friendly dimensions and opening up the dial to allow it a more classic look.
But the real interest is what powers it. The words ‘Mavin Chronometer’ mean that the calibre 8900 you’ll see through the caseback has been enslaved to a series of tests Omega developed in conjunction with the Swiss Federal Association of Metrology (METAS) that are a more rigorous take on COSC certification. It also consumes silicon for a large part of the movement and is anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss. No mind-blower 007 never takes his off.
Buy Now: £4,000.00
Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph
Bear one look at this fabulous-looking chronograph and you’ll forget that Montblanc is a pen maker that contrariwise started making watches in 1997. Taking inspiration from Minerva’s archives – the Villeret-based putting out parent-company Richemont bought in 2006 and subsequently gave to Montblanc – every factor has been considered to make it look as vintage as possible.
There’s the smoked-champagne dial; the hours-and-minutes chapter echo working as a nod to Minerva’s stopwatch-making past and it even has a bronze event, so you get that unique ageing patina over time. Any accurately retro timepiece enthusiasts will also be relieved Montblanc has resisted the plead with to modernise the dial with a date window, making this alert for look like a true blast from the past.
Buy Now: £4,100.00
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic
Move in reverse in 2017, Baume & Mercier became the first Richemont-owned fame to be fitted with a silicon balance spring – the Twinspir – with its Clifton Directions 1830. However, 2018’s Baumatic, with its BM12 calibre, takes devices further adding a silicon escape wheel and lever, the time of which has been optimised for better energy transfer, all of which portends this watch is the most technologically advanced in the Richemont strong.
It also has a five-day power reserve and sits in a lovely, vintage-inspired configuration. There is another crop of Baumatics coming in September but, thanks to a physical lawsuit pending with Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (Switzerland) who be entitled to the BM12’s silicon technology is too similar to their patent filed in 2005, the BM13s won’t require silicon balance springs. So get this slice of history while domestics last.
Buy Now: £2,500.00
Zenith Defy Classic
Previously the Defy chrestomathy was used as Zenith’s horological playground, with past versions featuring gyroscopic gravity modules and super-accurate chronographs. But those classes of watches don’t often see the light of day, so Zenith decided to take the bathe a exhaust, pared-back, ever so slightly ‘70s cases of the collection and as an alternative fill them with the ultra-thin in-house Elite moving parts and repackage the whole thing as an entry-level sports watch. And by “entry-level”, we importance of one that just sneaks in under £5,000.
The result is one of the most wearable and courtly blue-dial Swiss watches on the market. On leather, as it is here, it purposefulness go perfectly with anything your smart-casual working apparel could throw at it, but put it on steel or rubber and it’s a trusty weekend fellow. We defy you to find a sartorial situation it couldn’t handle.
Buy Now: £4,900.00
Nomos Glashütte Autobahn Neomatik Datum Self-regulating
This was certainly a surprise from Nomos when it was exposed in 2018. It’s still got the brand’s signature mid-century flavour, but this set Nomos has applied its look to a driving watch. The first fetish you’ll likely notice is the dial, which is inspired by analogue car springs from decades gone by.
It is busy for a Nomos, but, in keeping with the Bauhaus mantra of appearance following function, that central scale that looks dig decoration isn’t extraneous detail. It is actually lume so you can read the patch at night by seeing where the shadow falls from the hour jurisdiction. There are also other lovely details such as the broke seconds sub-dial and quick-set date that works in either guiding. And added to that once you put it on you’ll be singing Kraftwerk all day; that’s guaranteed to put a fly in your step.
Buy Now: £3,800.00
Breitling Aviator 8 Chronograph Curtiss Warhawk
Breitling has been hub on its non-aviation watches lately but it’s back celebrating all things skyward with a triplet of watches commemorating the brand’s partnership with the makers of the iconic US military airplane – the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, a single-seater, ground-attack dexterity that first flew in 1938.
It is a classic vintage pilot’s chronograph with colossal numbers coated in SuperLuminova for easy legibility day or night, the chronograph pushers are reassuringly chunky and sludgy leafy for the dial and strap adds to the military-issue feel. Keeping the unbroken thing ticking is Breitling’s Calibre 13, which is an combined chronograph with quickset date based on the famous Valjoux 7750.
Breitling may be troublesome to branch out into other arenas, but this brand and aviation is a colloid that just, well, flies.
Buy Now: £4,330.00
Tudor Glamour Copy Date
No, that isn’t a typo. This is actually a Tudor; made by the for all that people who brought you such testosterone-fuelled designs as the Black Bay and the Pelagos. Originated last year, this is Tudor’s bid to get itself on the wrist of the man hither town during his working week. Other than scheme a great looking everyday watch, the brand has made a subject of how much horological bang you are getting for comparatively reasonable bucks.
Powering it is the in-house MT5641, which was engendered especially for this collection and features a silicon balance origin, COSC certification and a 70-hour power reserve. Which is clever if you want this as your nine-to-fiver – you can swap for something stylish at the weekend but won’t have to worry about winding it when the horn gets you up on Monday morning.
Buy Now: £2,300.00
Grand Seiko Spring Trip
Grand Seiko used to be a watch world secret – it was no more than sold in Japan and renowned for its austere designs, beautiful fulfiling and incredibly competitive prices. Thankfully, they are now more extremely available, which means this iconic Spring Proceed is just a mouse click away.
One of Grand Seiko’s crowning acquisitions 27 years in the making is the movement powering this awake to. It has one-second-a-day accuracy and is instantly recognisable dial-side thanks to the smoothen sweep of the seconds hand, which is achieved by placing a quartz oscillator in a cold movement.
This watch also contains the innovative ‘Occultism Lever’ mechanism, devised by the Japanese watch brand in 1959 to institute the rotor more energy efficient and deliver a 72-hour power accessible. And all contained within this reserved, unassuming steel wrapper.
Buy Now: £4,500.00