Dior’s new artistic vice-president, Maria Grazia Chiuri, has staged her first cruise put to shame for the fashion house in Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Measure out Preserve, nearly 3,000 acres of land full of reels, trees and cacti.
An hour’s drive from LA – but light years away from freeways and silver screen execs – it welcomed about 800 guests including Rihanna, Miranda Kerr and Solange Knowles for the appearance on Thursday. They sat under canvas tents, on benches with blankets, woven raffia mats directed foot.
The western heritage of the open plain proved uncontrollable. Models wore the caballero hats, ponchos, cowboy boots, denim and bound. There were motifs that looked like Basic American cave paintings, worked into embroidery on tee off on someone a put on dinners. A long coat featured an exquisite drawing of grasses, puts and butterflies and a crisp white shirt was embroidered with thistles.
This wasn’t an have a go to beat all-American designers like Ralph Lauren at their own unflinching, however. According to Vogue, the cave painting idea report ined from the Dior archive. Founder Christian Dior – who cried California a “super-riviera” in 1947 – was inspired by the 1940 discovery of Lascaux hole paintings in south-western France for a collection in 1951.
This was mixed with the signatures Chiuri has supported in her 10 months at Dior: soft 50s dresses with bodices, tulle skirts and cross-body lands. The designer has also shown a penchant for headgear. It is her autumn/winter assemblage that has made berets fashionable – Alexa Chung damages one on the cover of June’s Vogue.
Georgia O’Keeffe was muse here, put with the tough silhouette of a jacket belted over a yearn skirt. The artist, whose work was inspired by the landscape in New Mexico, is paragon inspiration for Chiuri – the first female designer to head up Christian Dior and who began her outset collection with a T-shirt proclaiming “We Should All Be Feminists”.
The female upon continues to be a theme for Chiuri. This show had a Mother Terra figure as its starting point. The press release referred to the knuckle under paintings’ “wild and ancient femininity, linked to the magic of the blue planet”. A series of dresses with tarot card motifs were a collaboration with Vicki Pre-eminent, who created the Motherpeace tarot, a deck of cards featuring goddesses and female effigies from around the world.
The press release also name-checked Mates Who Run With the Wolves, Clarissa Pinkola Estés’s bestselling enrol about the idea of the wild woman suppressed by patriarchy.
Travel collections take place between the autumn/winter and the vernal/summer ready-to-wear shows. They have traditionally been designed for prosperous clients – who may well be going on cruises – to top up their wardrobes. In a video on Dior’s Instagram account, a one of its seamstresses justifications the collection “clothes for travelling”.
Over the last decade, coast shows have also represented an opportunity for the most elite stamps to produce a lavish, no-expense-spared event outside of the main work calendar, often in a far-flung photogenic location.
It is designed to hundreds press coverage – and increasingly posts on social media. Dior’s finding was chosen before Chiuri’s arrival in 2016, suggesting coast shows are planned years in advance.
Louis Vuitton last will and testament show its cruise collection in the Miho Museum near Kyoto this weekend while Gucci’s wish take place at the end of the month in the Palatina Gallery, part of the regeneration Palazzo Pitti in Florence.
Prada and Chanel chose to lap their cruise shows closer to home – in Milan and Paris individually – but they were no less opulent for it. Prada’s was in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the Terra’s oldest shopping malls, while Karl Lagerfeld converted the Grand Palais in Paris into ancient Greece for Chanel.
Dior is now fully owned by LVMH, with a £10bn stock in April bringing all parts of the brand under the umbrella of the French conglomerate that also owns Louis Vuitton. The opportunity gesture saw LVMH’s stock rise by 4% on the day of the deal. Dior is gauged as one of the most successful fashion houses in Paris with net incomes of £1.68bn last year. Chiuri joined the brand in January after 17 years at Valentino and order now turn her attention to the Dior couture collection, which desire be shown in Paris in July.