Gems is tough to pull off if you don’t make your money spitting bans. Which is a large part of why men obsess over watches. Go up to a business lunch with inch-thick gold draped around your neck and you’re even the score with seated by the bathrooms. But if it’s around your wrist? “Please, sir, do walk me to the chef’s table”.
But you can’t rely on one knockout timepiece. As with your clothes, a deep wrist rotation allows for better dressing and the endanger to switch up your style. Trust us – an alarm clock-faced flier’s watch glinting on your wrist kills your foul tie look as much as a pair of Air Jordans (got that, Ed Sheeran?).
A sports-led chronograph on a protect bracelet may fit the boardroom, but it’s by no means classic enough for a wedding. Which inferiors unless you’re fine wearing the same outfit everywhere, you call for multiple options.
That’s all well and good, you say, but there’s the grudging matter of the five-figure price tag on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Gauzy dress watch. Dropping a house deposit on something schemed for red carpets isn’t realistic unless you’re walking them regularly. Credits be, then, for the subtle – but important – distinction between a watch stock of clothing, and a watch collection.
What Is A Watch Wardrobe?
A ‘watch chrestomathy’ is for men who describe themselves, without a glimmer of irony, as ‘horologists’. Those who don’t about: “Does that blue face work with this bomber jacket?”, but “Which of my pinstripe argosy suits should I wear with the Patek?” Watch assemblages tend to appreciate in safes, as multi-thousand pound piles of dearest metal.
“Connoisseurs can collect timepieces that never see sun or complement their owner,” says Damian Otwinowski, Foible President of Watches of Switzerland. “That’s an injustice to the craftsmanship.” Or, you identify, the equivalent of Smaug the dragon lounging on his pile of treasure.
A keep ones eyes open for wardrobe, however, is a group of timepieces that let you set off whatever you’re wearing right-minded so. “We change our skin often,” says Otwinowski. “A watch should be an augmentation of your attitude, personality and mood.” So these are pieces that really spend time on your wrist, rather than congress dust.
A watch wardrobe can be spendy, if you’ve got the means, but needn’t be if you haven’t. The key is that what’s in it places worn, and that each element is bought with an idea of how it’ll work with what you wear.
How To Start Your Own
Edifice a watch wardrobe, then, means covering bases. Some say that every man needs three superintends: one for the office, one for the weekend and something plain-faced for formal dinners that rakes nothing other than the time and how refined your discrimination is. Fine if you’re Don Draper. Less so if you’re more often in nightclubs than those distant for private members.
So, although the trio stands, it needs updating. A agreeable place to start is with a classic dress watch, previously moving onto something sporty. Lastly, a statement crack up smashed comes in handy for special occasions – think weddings, bust-ups and generally events that require you to dress up. It’s ok to go fancy here. You pauperism something with enough jazz to separate it from your garb watch daily – it should feel special when you strap it on; the wrist match of putting on a bespoke suit.
The classic and sports should perfectly have something to do with either your job – if you’re a seaman, then over Rolex Yacht-Master over a pilot’s watch like a Breitling Navitimer – or your sidelines. For keen cooks, a plain-faced chronograph, like a IWC Portugieser, purposes a better outfit in the office and perfect pasta in the kitchen.
The Lees Rules Of A Watch Wardrobe
There are some ground dismisses to watch-clothing styling. First, leathers and metals should tourney. If you’re wearing brown shoes, or carrying a chocolate folio, you have need of to switch that black crocodile skin. And if you’re wearing any gold jewels – probably your wedding ring and cufflinks, unless you’re in the A$AP Mob – don’t step a silver bracelet. Yes, that includes steel.
Beyond that, it’s up matching aesthetic to environment. As a rule of thumb, the more utilitarian your watch, the less formal the occasion you wear it for. You shouldn’t beggary to time anything at a wedding (it won’t make the best man’s speech go faster, although – experience our word for it – champagne will) so there’s no need to wear a nosediving watch.
Technically, tradition dictates that if you’re in a dinner jacket, you shouldn’t be stand up a watch at all as you’re having too much fun to worry about the time. But there’s unendingly your phone if you’re not.
The First Watch: The Simple One
Your basic watch, then, should be something adaptable. There’s no moment dropping your hard-earned on a dress watch if you live in streetwear, or a likeness with more dials than a call centre when you coax in pensions in the city.
You also don’t want to blow the bank. Your before watch sets a benchmark you’re unlikely to dip below, so be sensible and look to upgrade later. The tenet here is to go with something simple, that’ll be just as with it in ten years as it is now. Stick with minimal time-only pieces that hold down a post well with both formal and casual dress – about slim hands, paired back hour markers and lesser case sizes.
Key Features: Minimal dial, understated project
Price Point: £100 – £500
When To Wear It: Every day, to the office
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The Second Watch: The Sporty One
Next comes something with myriad personality. Sports watches are inevitably less formal than dress pore overs – they tend to feature additional complications such as chronographs or descending bezels which add to their complexity and make them more arrogate for laid back attire.
Depending on the model you go for, a sports pore over may well be the most versatile piece in your rotation. Get a classically styled one, a Tissot Seastar or a Seiko diver conceivably, and you’ll be able to wear it with just about anything, separately from from your sharpest business suit or a tuxedo that is.
Sports pore overs should technically be hardier than slighter models due to their operational nature – they’re often waterproof and made from chunkier sword so they can take a knock or two. As such, your weekend shouldn’t be without one. Due to their varied complex functions however, sports watches with habitual movements are usually much more expensive than counterpart dress watches, not taking into account pieces made from beloved metal.
Key Features: Rugged design, a complication (i.e. chronograph or swooping bezel)
Price Point: £400 – £2,000
When To Wear It: At the weekend, with dgag attire
The Third Watch: The Statement One
Finally, your announcement watch. Perhaps counter-intuitively, there’s an argument to be made that less harm means you should spend more. You get the pleasure of breaking out something uncommon, and run less risk of it getting battered. But statement needn’t aim over-the-top. We’re not talking about gaudy colours and oversized dials here – utterances can be classy too, and (a tad) expensive.
As far as where to start, Baume & Mercier’s Baumatic sort (from £2,300) is unobtrusive but – with its simple hour markers and in-house upward – still has personality and is a great option for a first time investment wedge. If you’ve saved the pennies, Zenith’s Elite Classic (£5,500) tee off on someone a put on dinners up thanks to its beautifully elegant dial, but the chronograph adds a ruggedness that have as justifications you won’t have to wait for a black tie ball to break it out.
Just recall, mechanical watches aren’t like their workhorse quartz cousins. Secure watches are like car engines, they need to be maintained every yoke of years or otherwise they risk loosing performance.
And well-deserved as you wouldn’t take that finely tuned Ferrari to the supermarket, don’t gamble damaging your tourbillon on the trolley. That said, call to mind to – when appropriate – actually wear it. You don’t want your attire to become a security box.
Key Features: A point of difference (ie precious metal, in-house upward, iconic design)
Price Point: £1,000 – £5,000+
When To Wear It: On odd occasions, when you want to show off